Crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall between basecamp and Camp 1 on Everest. Guy Cotter

The Seven Summits require a variety of different skills to successfully ascend. Each of the peaks is unique in its own way. Some of the summits require highly refined skills, whereas others require a basic framework of foundational skills. At the American Alpine Institute, we offer an array of courses and ascents that will help to prepare you for each of the Seven Summits.

This training list is merely a sample of a possible series of courses and ascents that will help you attain your goal. Ultimately, the skills and experience that you already have will dictate what additional courses and ascents you will need. Please contact our office at 360-671-1505 to receive counseling on the best plan of action for you.

Following is a simple breakdown of the recommended courses and ascents for each of the Seven Summits.

On the approach to Kilimanjaro. Keith Gunnar

• Introduction to Alpinism: This course provides a foundation of technical skills that you will need on every mountain that you climb. Kilimanjaro, Elbrus and Aconcagua are cold and high, but don't require significant technical skills. Most climbers will do well on these peaks after developing a baseline in our introductory course.

Descending from basecamp on Aconcagua showing the Polish Glacier,
which flows from the summit diagonally right. Jim Ledvinca

• Carstensz Pyramid is a technical rock climb at altitude. To start your training you might take a Basic Rock Climbing Course or an Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership (AMTL) course. The AMTL course provides you with foundational skills on snow, ice as well as on multi-pitch rock. Some on the quest to climb the Seven Summits might choose to take the AMTL course over the Introduction to Alpinism course due to the fact that it provides them with mulit-pitch climbing experience.


• The second step to training for this mountain will be to obtain more experience climbing multi-pitch technical rock at a moderate level. Group courses that cover this include Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part II and the Learn to Lead course. Private multi-pitch rock courses may be arranged in the Cascades, the Sierra or in Red Rock Canyon.




North side of Carstensz Pyramid from the air. Hall and Ball archive. Hedgehog House

• The third step to training for Carstensz Pyramid will be to continue to acquire more multi-pitch rock in an alpine setting on higher end routes. Routes to consider include the following:

• Mount Whitney, East Face (5.7, III) - Sierra
• Mount Whitney, East Buttress (5.7, III) - Sierra
• Bear Creek Spire, North Arete (5.8, III) - Sierra
• Mount Russell, Fishhook Arete (5.9, III) - Sierra
• Forbidden Peak, East Ridge (5.8. III) - Cascades
• Dragontail Peak, Serpentine Arete (5.8, IV) - Cascades
• Mount Stuart, North Ridge (5.9, IV+) - Cascades
• South Early Winter Spire (5.9+, IV) - Cascades

You certainly don't need to climb all of the preceding routes to be ready for Carstensz Pyramid, but two or three of them will provide considerable help in getting you ready for the route.

Denali from the southwest. Alasdair Turner

• Introduction to Alpinism or Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership: This will provide the foundation for these cold and high peaks.


• Denali Prep: This course will equip you with the ability to deal with cold weather in an expeditionary setting. Many of the specific expeditionary skills such as how to fortify a camp or how to ascend fixed lines on the ice are covered in this class.


• Most climbers need additional training to prepare for their ascents of Denali and Vinson. There are a number of courses and ascents that could help. The following list is not meant to include everything that you have to do in order to get ready, but instead should be thought of as a list of options:

• Aconcagua
• Ecuador: High Altitude Expedition
• Bolivia Part 2 - Alpine Mountaineering and Ascents
• Winter Mountaineering - Sierra and San Juan Mountains
• Alpine Ice Climbing
• Mount Rainier - Kautz Glacier
• Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership (AMTL) Part II and AMTL Part III

There are many other paths to attaining more experience. Please speak with one of our program coordinators for other options.

Vinson Massif in the Ellsworth Mountains of Antarctica. Guy Cotter

• Everest Prep: This is a private prep course that will supplement your current knowledge in order to prepare you for your climb. A customized itinerary will be developed for you that will be based on your specific experiences.


• Denali: The standard on Everest is that people have completed an expedition to Denali.


• Additional experience is required for Everest. Once again, there are many possibilities and combinations that will lead to acceptance - and potentially success - on the trip. Please speak to one of our program coordinators to develop a plan. Following are a series of recommended climbs: