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Equipment List

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Second Summits

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A climber tests out their skills on the Coleman Glacier. Photo by Coley Gentzel

This is an intensive course providing comprehensive instruction in the problems met and skills required on difficult alpine ascents. The curriculum consists of a review of fundamental snow and ice climbing skills and detailed treatment of all intermediate and advanced techniques and state-of-the-art climbing methods. National Accreditation Reviewers have described the program as "probably the most comprehensive, progressive, and intense course of its type in the world," and it has been particularly noted for its emphasis on teaching climbers to lead. The entire course is spent on glaciers and a great deal of practice climbing is done each day. Instruction is given on Mt. Baker which has eighteen glaciers and routes of all technical standards.

The Cascade Range is the principle training ground in America for those planning Alaskan, Andean, and Himalayan ascents because the ice climbing can be done in the mild and good weather months of summer, and because during that period one can climb on a complete range of snow and ice types, each of which requires adjustment in climbing technique and protective systems. Instruction on the Coleman Glacier of Mt. Baker, considered the top glacial training ground in the United States.

Day One

Students will meet at AAI at 7:00am. After completing a comprehensive gear check they will drive up to the trailhead. It is approximately three miles up to the camp. After arriving and establishing camp, snow skills, basic belay techniques, knots, and crampon techniques will all be covered.

Day Two

Low-angle and steep ice techniques will be introduced on day two. Historical low-angled (French) ice techniques as well as advanced modern techniques will be introduced and practiced in a variety of settings. Students will have the opportunity to experiment with different ice tools on both vertical and overhanging ice.

Day Three

The focus of the third day will be protective systems for ice climbing; techniques and systems for leading; the application of ice climbing sills to difficult terrain; and closely supervised technical climbing in an icefall. After a full day, students will pack up camp and hike out.

Participants are instructed in a highly refined, hybrid ice climbing technique that combines the most effective aspects of American, German, and French approaches to snow and ice. There is flexibility in emphasis according to individual interest and need.

• design concepts, performance, and selection of ice axes & technical tools
• proper choice between and application of the primary ice axe positions: piolet, canne, panne, manche, poignard, ramasse, rampe, ancre, and traction
• choice between and application of American, French, and German cramponing techniques
• proper selection and placement of ice screws, snow flukes, & pickets for belays and intermediate protection
• the uses of mechanical belay devices in alpine climbing
• specialized designs and uses of alpine and technical tools in high angle climbing
• free climbing technique on overhanging ice
• setting up and operating a hanging belay
• evaluation of the objective hazards of avalanche, rockfall, and icefall
• integration of specific skills with the general goals of efficient, safe, and self-dependent climbing
• Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing