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Virtual Tour

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Climbing the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak with Moraine Lake, Eldorado Peak,
and the Inspiration Glacier in the distance, North Cascades. Bryan Feinstein

"The 4-part course was just what we were looking for: a systematic way to learn how to lead on rock and glaciers, starting from minimal experience on those media. By going through the course, we now have a whole new dimension to explore on our backcountry trips." -Myron and Adele (Laramie, WY)

Men's Journal calls this program "the country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course." It has three 12-day segments, and you can choose to take one, two, three, or all four. Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. Part 2 - More Advanced Skills & Technical Leading develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. Part 3 allows you to continue to develop your technical leadership skills while providing an opportunity to focus those skills on one of three areas. Part 4 is an expedition in which all of the skills developed are employed in a remote and complex big mountain setting.

This is the second part of our 4-part Alpine Mountaineering and Leadership course. You must complete Part 1 in order to take this segment, and if you took Part 1 more than a year and a half prior, you will need to take a four-day refresher unless you have done significant climbing in the interim. Part 2 develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. Following successful completion of this segment you will be able to join Part 3 , an expedition on which all skills are employed in a remote and complex context. To conclude the series Part 4 allows students to function as expedition leaders.

• Take one or all four parts of this course in: 12, 24, 36, or 48 days.
• Take the course in one year or over the course of two, three or four years.
• Complete all four parts and receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

This program has been described by National Accreditation reviewers as "the most practical and complete course devoted to technical mountain leadership offered." It is designed to establish in participants sound judgment in the complex alpine environment as well as a high level of technical ability on rock, snow, and ice.

It is our primary goal that upon completion of this program you will be able to function successfully as an alpine climbing leader at an intermediate or more advanced level. Climbers who successfully complete all three parts of this program receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

Rappelling on Mt. Triumph. Andy Bourne

In this second 12-day segment of the program you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on snow and ice while making ascents of the rugged glaciers and high peaks of North Cascades National Park and on rock while climbing the spectacular granite routes of Squamish, British Columbia. This is one of the rare courses in the world that specifically teaches techniques for leading on rock, snow, and ice. You will increase your proficiency in free climbing, and you will also become capable of setting up sophisticated and effective protective systems.

Your instructors will help you refine you skills of route selection, route finding, and natural hazards evaluation that were introduced in Part I. Additionally, we emphasize the development of both the judgment and the specific climbing and protective systems skills required for leading more advanced climbs. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes.

Climbers practice vertical ice climbing on Mt. Baker's north side. Bryan Feinstein

Alpine Travel & Climbing Skills

• introduction to specialized equipment for intermediate and advanced climbing
• advanced problems in map, compass, altimeter, and GPS use
• introduction to the physics of glacier formation & movement for use in route finding and evaluation
• advanced protective systems and anchoring techniques
• intermediate and advanced free climbing techniques
• steep ice climbing technique
• nutrition & menu planning

Objective Hazards Evaluation & Self-Rescue Skills

• advanced problems in objective hazard assessment
• introduction to avalanche hazard evaluation
• advanced problems in crevasse rescue
• intermediate and advanced free climbing techniques

Leadership Skills

• assessing team strength, security, and safety
• technical leadership on snow, ice, and rock

Environmental Protection Skills

• assessment of the fragility & vitality of several ecosystems
• Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing skills

Nearing the summit of Dome Peak, North Cascades. Joe Stock

To expose you to varied terrain and the requirements that they place upon technique, we normally use three to five climbing locations during this program. They typically include rock climbing at Squamish, British Columbia above fjord-like Howe Sound, and ice and rock routes on peaks from among the following: Mt. Baker, Forbidden Peak, Mt. Torment, Sahale Peak, Mt. Buckner, Mt. Stuart, Spire Peak, and Dome Peak.

Specific levels of technical performance will always vary somewhat from one participant to another, depending on each person's strengths, interests, and personal goals. Our intent in this course is to help each participant become an experienced and skilled rope team leader on rock, snow, and ice at an intermediate or more advanced level. Because we have such a low climber-to-guide ratio (maximum 3:1) we are able to provide a lot of individual attention to each team member.

Unlike many "mountain leadership" courses, AAI does not allow this program to become an over-equipped expedition or a physical ordeal. Instead of twelve days in the backcountry, we move through several areas in order to intensify the learning and give you experience on a wide variety of terrain.

We work hard to limit the amount of time spent backpacking to and from climbing goals so that we can have an absolute focus on technical skills, assessment, real (not theoretical) decision making, and multi-pitch snow, ice, and rock climbing.

In both its philosophy and its state-of-the-art climbing systems, AAI emphasizes perceptiveness, lightness, and speed as allies of safety and success. Nonetheless, because of the extensive practice climbing and the many peak ascents that we make, a high level of physical fitness is essential to take full advantage of this program.

Check out our other Leadership Programs!