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Beginner & Intermediate
Beginner & Intermediate
Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition Details
Length - 31 days
Cost - $5950 (2009)
Max Ratio - 6:1
Capacity - 12
Location
Khumbu Himal, Nepal
Prerequisites
Basic alpine skills are recommended but not required. Excellent physical condition.
Program Dates
Nov 11 - Dec 11, 2009
Oct 6 - Nov 5, 2010
Nov 10 - Dec 10, 2010

 

Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition

Itinerary Equipment List Dispatches Slideshow


We gain a great view of Everest from the summit of Lobuche East.


Program Overview

This program provides the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000-foot (6000+ meter) peaks in a relatively short time and in one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and superb climbing on Island Peak (20,306'/6189m), Lobuche East (20,076'/6119m), and Parchamo (20,581'/6273m).

The Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition is comprised of moderately technical climbing, do-able for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure. We'll help you develop and advance your alpine climbing skills as we make this fantastic journey through five different valleys in a rewarding month of high Himalayan climbing.

This program is designed to offer you the best of Nepal at a reasonable price. Ultimately, our many years of Himalayan experience allows us to introduce you to the best food, accommodations, destinations, and experiences available. With the leadership and company of our most affable and experienced Western guides, working collaboratively with our excellent Sherpa colleagues, we promise you an experience of a lifetime! This expedition is a joint AAI/Adventure Consultants undertaking that draws on the knowledge and experience of both guide services.


On the approach trek just before Dingbouche, with Chukung and Island Peak in the distance. Suze Kelly.


Ascent of the Three Peaks of Nepal

Island Peak, referred to by the Sherpa people as Imja Tse (an "island in a glacial sea"), is an exciting and popular peak that is an ideal starting point for the Three Peak expedition. The view from the summit of Nuptse and Lhotse's south faces is awe-inspiring.

Stepping from Island Peak to Lobuche East is an ideal progression. Lobuche East is a little more technical with more fixed rope and slightly more exposure. The high camp is dramatic with exceptional views across the valley to Ama Dablam, especially at dusk when the peaks turn pink as the sun sets into Tibet.

Our third peak, Mt. Parchamo, is located deep in the Himalayas, near the Tesi Lapche La (pass) to the East of Namche Bazar. The climb itself is relatively straightforward, requiring ice-axe, crampons and some use of fixed rope.

Itinerary

On our first day, we arrive in Kathmandu, where we spend a day organizing and preparing for our expedition. From there, we fly to Lukla on day three.

Initially, our team will stay at Tea Houses in the lower Khumbu Valley until we reach Namche Bazar. From there, our kitchen crew and extra porters will join us for the next 20 nights or so to help set up and maintain our camps, and to assist along our approach trek and on the climbs.

In the Imjatse Valley, Island Peak enjoys spectacular views of the North Side of Ama Dablam and the sweeping flanks of Mt. Nuptse along with the world's third highest peak, Mt. Lhotse. The climb of Island Peak will not be too technical, with some fixed rope sections near the summit. We will start the climb from base camp, as we do not utilize the high camp, leaving as early as 1:00am to make our bid for the summit. Preceding the summit attempt will be fixed rope coaching and acclimatization hikes on nearby peaks.


Approaching Island Peak on its lower glacier. Suze Kelly.


From Island Peak base camp we will cross back into the Khumbu and then up to our camp at Dzonglha. We spend a day actively resting, learning and practicing mountaineering skills. We then move up to a high camp on Lobuche East, where we set up camp on a small expanse of snow or rock, above a deep, blue lake. It's then early to bed for another alpine start.

Our early start, usually around 2:30am, unfolds into a climb of the south-east ridge, which is a mixture of moderately steep snow and ice. When necessary, we fix ropes along the route. Steady climbing will bring us to the far eastern summit.

From the top we are richly rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest Nuptse, Changtse (in Tibet) Pumori, Gyachung Kang, and Cho Oyu. We then return to our base camp.


After thorough acclimatization, climbers enjoy the steeper ground on Lobuche East. Mar.


After the ascent of Lobuche East we usually take a day to rest, then climb up and over the Cho La (pass) and descend to camp near the village of Gokyo. From here it is another big day over the Renjo La (pass) with spectacular views back towards Everest massif. After descending down the other side of the pass, we set up camp. The next day, we descend to Thame and prepare for our third summit attempt.

We travel light, moving up the Thamo Khola Valley for a camp at about 16,400 feet. Depending on how the group is feeling, we may elect to establish another camp higher at around 18,050 feet on a glacier. From there we make our summit attempt on Mt. Parchamo. Summit day will be strenuous, but because of our extensive acclimatization, the group should experience enjoyable climbing as you aim to reach the summit before midday.

Land Cost Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions:

  • Nepalese Government peak royalty fees
  • All trek organizational requirements
  • All trekking permits
  • Airport transfers in Kathmandu
  • Air transport and accommodation in lodges or tents except Kathmandu
  • All group equipment (tents, ropes, kitchen, radios, etc.) and emergency medical supplies
  • All trek staff, including Western guide, Sherpa guides, cooks, and porter support
  • Transport of 33lb (15kg) personal equipment
  • All meals after departing Kathmandu and before arriving back in Kathmandu
  • Access to our satellite telephone for outgoing calls

Exclusions:

  • Air travel to and from Nepal
  • Hotel accommodation and meals in Kathmandu
  • Purchases of bottled water while on the trek, gifts, alcohol, (we supply boiled water for drinking)
  • Other charges at lodges/tea houses such as showers, internet access or batter re-charging
  • Entry visas for Nepal (we suggest getting a 30 or 90-day tourist visa for Nepal on arrival in Kathmandu)
  • Personal clothing and equipment
  • Personal travel insurance, cancellation insurance, and rescue insurance
  • Excess baggage charges for the flights to and from Lukla
  • Cost of satellite telephone calls
  • Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition


On the spectacular summit ridge of Island Peak.


Flight Information

Flight arrangements should be made so that you arrive in Kathmandu on the first scheduled start day of the trip (Day 1), and you depart the last scheduled day of the trip (Day 31). Please email or call our Travel Coordinator, Lisa Greif, if you would like assistance with travel arrangements (509-972-4028).

Other Programs in Nepal

Beginner and intermediate climbers looking for a program with more trekking than climbing may want to consider our Khumbu Trek. For advanced climbers who are searching for physical and technical difficulty, we also offer expeditions on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and the ever alluring Mount Everest.

Please click on the program links for more information on each of these unique and challenging ascents.


Follow Up Programs
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Climbers travel with AAI to Bolivia because, without a doubt, the high peaks there offer some of the most spectacular mountain beauty and highest quality alpine climbing in the world. Join for part or all of our expedition to the Bolivian Andes.

 
Bolivia Part 3 - Illimani Expedition
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Illimani is the highest peak in the Cordillera Real. It is a massive mountain with three summits over 20,000 feet and with a profile visible from hundreds of miles out on the altiplano to the west and from far out into the Amazon Basin on the east.

 
Ecuador - Antisana and Illiniza Expedition
10 days Intermediate Ecuadorian Andes November - March, May - July
This expedition is an excellent choice for intermediate climbers wishing to apply their skills to moderately challenging high altitude routes on peaks that are often admired and seldom climbed.

 
Ecuador - High Altitude Expedition
Part 1 - 10 days; Part 2 - 5 days (Chimborazo) Beginner & Intermediate Ecuadorian Andes November - June, May - July
With two days of skills instruction, those with little technical climbing experience have the opportunity to ascend Cayambe (18,997 ft), Cotopaxi (19,348 ft), and Chimborazo (20,703 ft) by way of classic snow and ice routes.

 
Peru - Toqllaraju & Chopicalqui Expedition
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Review skills and climb high altitude peaks in the midst of one of the world's most impressive mountain ranges.

 


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