The rest of the group (two guides, three Sherpas and four climbers) is still perched at High Camp, hoping that tomorrow will bring clear weather and another shot at the top. I think of them up there, sucking on the rarified air, and am thankful to be where I am. After spending two nights "sleeping" at Camp 3, and three weeks climbing and summiting the peak, it feels good to know that we are almost down. "Take your time," I remind everyone as we navigate the fixed ropes, "It's been a good trip and we don't want to blow it now."

      Thirty minutes later, we cross under the maze of prayer flags hanging still above Camp 1. We congratulate each other on handling the intricate descent with aplomb, and collapse into our tents. We take off our boots, helmets and harnesses, and fire up the stoves. This is our last night of fine de-hydrated dining, and I for one am not lamenting the fact. Tomorrow we will sit in cushioned chairs, walk on flat ground, check our emails, drink cold beer, and feast on the edible handiwork of our Base Camp Chef - Zongbu Sherpa. But for now, the hiss of the stove and the thousand foot vertical drop outside the tent forces me back to the moment and to the uniqueness of my position.

      After eight years of guiding for AAI throughout North and South America, I'd finally gotten my chance to work in Asia. Since this was my first time participating in the guide exchange program within the AAI / AC Alliance, I wasn't one hundred percent sure what to expect. Then again, if guiding has taught me anything at all, it's that you can never be one hundred percent sure of what to expect. No two trips are ever the same, and just when you think you've seen it all, some new strain of chaos is lying in wait around the next switch-back. So, with no expectations and a lot of gear, I boarded the plane and headed for Nepal.

      We spent the first night on the trail in Phakding, followed by two nights in the regional trading capital of Namche Bazaar. From here, we continued past the Buddhist Monastery in Tyangboche and spent a night in Deboche. Another short day's trek landed us in Pangboche, where we received Llama Geshe's blessings, and rested for two days before continuing on to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. I could fill many pages describing the intricacies of the trek; from the Stupas and the prayer walls lined with Tibetan Script, to the tea houses and the flying bridges covered entirely with prayer flags; from the bakeries in Namche Bazaar, to the views of Everest and Ama Dablam from the Everest View Hotel. The list of notables, especially to the first-timer in the Khumbu Valley, is astounding. Even if you never got above Base Camp, the trek alone would be enough to justify the trip.

      The first occurred on the way to Camp 2, when we bottlenecked atop a vertical section of fixed rope. I was standing on a ledge barely big enough for myself, hauling my team's packs so that they could ascend the ropes with less difficulty. The whole operation was challenging enough without the added strain of other parties descending on top of us. Of course, as luck would have it, a Sherpa guide and his team showed up as my guys were half way up the ropes. I expected that they would immediately jump on the lines and continue their descent, thereby creating pure chaos for my team who was still struggling to ascend. But instead of doing so, the Sherpa smiled and greeted me with a toothy "Namaste!" He then proceeded to help me haul my team's packs up to the ledge, and patiently waited until we were all clear of the ropes before continuing down. This was one of the classiest things I have ever seen from another guide in the mountains.

      One day after my team returned to Base Camp, the rest of the party summited the peak. We toasted them from the comfort of the dining tent and drank beer - lots and lots of beer - in their honor. A few days later, they sauntered off the mountain and joined us in the celebration. Their timing was impeccable. We awoke the next morning to Yak bells and snow at Base Camp. Winter had arrived. With the summit behind us, and with over ninety percent of the group having reached the top, it was time to leave the mountain behind and begin the downhill trek to Lukla.