July 16, 2007

Danny submitted the following report later in the afternoon of July 16 after returning to La Paz.

"Team Mabunga had a great day today on Huayna Potosi. We only regret we were without Tom (who was laid up at the hotel in La Paz up in the hotel with a serious chest cold) and Sigrid (who made it to the Rock Refugio at 17,000 feet yesterday but wasn't feeling good enough to climb this morning).

"We departed from high camp at the Rock Refugio at 4:30am under mostly clear skies and with the city lights of El Alto shining up to us. Our route on Huayna Potosi faces east and gets beautiful early morning sun. Guide Joey Elton teamed up with Steve Eichel of Massachussetts and Kurt Gusinde of Arizona, while I climbed with Rob Smart. We left the hut, walked 100 feet to the glacier, and began our long but rewarding, successful summit day on Huayna.

"As sunrise neared around 6:45, the sky displayed all the colors of the spectrum, from blood red to deep blue. A half hour later we crested a ridge which put us in direct view of the rising sun and its warm rays. Shedding layers and adding sunglasses, our two teams enjoyed great climbing as we progressed towards the final summit block. The final part of the climb consists of three pitches of 50-60 degree snow and ice. It's steepness makes the finish very exciting and very photogenic! Rob and I summitted first, and we found the summit to be little more than a thin ridgeline about ten feet wide at the most. One side drops away incredibly fast - it's the west face, over 3000 feet and the largest mountain face in Bolivia.

"We enjoyed our time on top - great views in all directions from Illimani in the southwest to Ancohuma in the northeast plus the Amazon lowlands to the east and Lake Titicacca and the altiplano to the west. On our descent down the summit block, Rob and I passed Joey's team nearing the finish of their ascent. Back on flatter ground, Rob and I enjoyed a casual descent back to the refugio, where Martin (our cook) and Sigrid were lounging in the hot sunshine.

"We were joined later by Joey, Kurt, and Steve. Everyone was a bit weary from a beautiful but long day that offered a mix of cramponing through the previous week's fresh snow and at times climbing on firm ice. After a break, we began the steep descent from the Refugio on the once casual but now ice-covered trail, back to the road where our bus driver German (pronounced Herman) was waiting.

"Now we are all back in La Paz and are desperately searching for a restaurant for a big dinner. It's La Paz Indepence Day! Just about every day here in Bolivia is some special day and a good reason to close shop. Not much seems to be open. We will report on this challenge tomorrow. We intend to succeed! Until later, Team Mabunga says ciao!"

Danny Uhlmann (front) and Rob Smart (back) at the beginning of the summit headwall
on Huayna Potosi. Photo by Kurt Gusinde

Kurt Gusinde (left) and Steve Eichel (right) on the summit of Huayna Potosi.
Photo by Joey Elton