2005 Denali Dispatches:
We are posting daily dispatches for each of the 2005 Alaska Expeditions. For details about each expedition (clients, guides, departure/return dates, etc.) please click here.
May 8, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 1: All team members of the first Denali expedition were successfully flown onto the Kahiltna Glacier, thanks to calm, sunny weather!
May 9, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 2: The first Denali expedition is well underway! The team made it to their first camp at 8,000 feet, after one long push from base camp. Perfect weather for most of the day provided sweeping views of the entire range. A minor snow storm passed over at the end of the day, just as the climbers reached camp.
The team picked up a hitch-hiker along the way: a little bird that had decided it was too exhausted to fly caught a ride up the mountain on one of the team sleds. Throughout the day, the bird took turns riding on different backpacks and sleds, and eventually gathered enough strength to fly on its own.
After a long and successful first day of climbing, everyone was ready to sit back in camp and eat a hearty dinner of burritos!
May 11, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 3: The climbers are well into their second day of ascending the steeper part of the mountain. This morning they established a gear cache at 10,000 feet, and they are continuing on to the 11,000-foot camp today.
So far the weather has been cooperating, though some clouds are rolling in. The guides are expecting good weather today and tomorrow, with some possible storms coming in over the weekend.
The group is feeling strong, moving fast, and is in good spirits!
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Departing soon!
May 12, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 4: Today the team is holed up at the 10,000-foot camp due to stormy weather. The forecast for the next two or three days doesn't look positive; if the weather is bad tomorrow they'll take a rest day.
The next obstacle the climbers will have to face is Windy Corner, which is unusually icy this year. This slope leads to their second cache at 13,500 feet. The guides have decided to wait for good weather before attempting this.
All climbers are still feeling healthy and team morale is high, despite the bad weather.
Private Expedition - Huntington Summitted
AAI program coordinator Coley Gentzel and guide Seth Hobby have just returned to Talkeetna after a very successful expedition to peaks above the Tokositna Glacier in the Alaska Range. They flew onto the glacier on April 25th and climbed the beautiful and extremely challenging Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington in three days, summitting on April 28th. After a few days of rest they climbed a new route (and possibly made a first ascent) on elegant Peak 11,520. This peak has been attempted many times without success, but Seth and Coley want to do more research before anyone calls it a first ascent. They have promised photos and the full story soon. Coley returns to work at the AAI office on May 16th and Seth guides the West Rib of Denali beginning on June 5th. For a story on AAI's guided ascent of Huntington's nearby West Face Couloir in 2004, click here.
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Departing soon!
May 13, 2005
Private Expedition: Success on Ham and Eggs (Moose's Tooth) He climbed in a party of three with two friends from Anchorage, one a photo journalist and the other a social worker. Aidan's friends had climbed Foraker and Denali and done technical ice, but this was their first big and exposed alpine climb, and they really enjoyed it.
The route consists of 18 pitches to a col and then a long ridge climb to the summit. Aidan reported, "the route was in good shape once we gained a little altitude. The first challenging pitch was 30 feet of vertical ice, and unfortunately it was slushy and tended to have layers fall away as we climbed it. It's a great route though, with slightly overhanging ice in several places, lots of 50 to 60-degree consolidated snow, and a series of pitches with 20 to 100 feet of vertical ice."
Aidan said, " There was one other party on the route. They were from Japan and super serious and trying to be super fast, even rappelling off single screws placed only half-way in. We thought it was nuts, so we tried to balance it by being very relaxed and by taking lots of long breaks. We spent 25 hours on the route and enjoyed every minute. We didn't arrive with a name, but we decided to call ourselves the 'anti-stress expedition.' We wanted to make a clear values statement in the Alaska Range." He noted that since they were using straight shafted tools they also felt "well grounded in old-school values."
They had beautiful weather and climbed the day after they landed, starting at 5:00 a.m. and finishing at 6:00 a.m. the next day. With extra days on their hands they also climbed the much easier Wisdom Tooth on a little 5.6 rock and lots of excellent 40 to 60-degree snow slopes. Aidan said, "the views of Mt. Dickey, Mt. Barill, and down through the Great Gorge were outstanding."
New as a guide with AAI this year is Aidan Loehr, a climber and educator from Seattle who has been working as a pilot on Alask's North Slope for the last few years. Aidan just arrived in Bellingham from Alaska and reports a great climb of Ham and Eggs on Moose's Tooth in the Alaska Range.
May 16, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 5: Beautiful blue skies greeted the climbers from their camp at 14,200 feet this morning. Everyone welcomed the good weather, the first in the last few days of clouds and light snow. "You can see everything," AAI guide Dylan Taylor describes, "The sky is completely blue and all the clouds are undercast below us, with the tops of big peaks like Mt. Foraker showing."
Because of the stormy weather over the last few days, the 14,200-foot camp has been crowded for days with literally "hundreds of climbers" awaiting a window of better weather. Finally this morning weather permitted progression up the mountain, and many parties at Camp 3 began moving out.
The AAI team is taking a rest day today. They had a long day on Saturday putting in a cache at 13,500 feet, and yesterday moved to their current camp at 14,200 feet. Dylan reports, "We got to camp at 9:00 last night, then spent 3 hours digging and building walls because it was so windy, so we didn't get to sleep until midnight. We're pretty tired, but the rest day will help a lot."
Plans for tomorrow are yet to be decided. Depending on how everyone feels in the morning, there is the possibility they will take one more day to rest at Camp 3. If everyone feels healthy and well rested, the team will move up the mountain to make a third cache at 16,200 feet.
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 1: Our second Denali expedition was scheduled to fly out of Talkeetna yesterday. However, due to relentless rain the team had to postpone their departure until today. So far conditions today look postive for the flight out onto the glacier.
May 18, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 6: After two days of rest at Camp 3, the climbers are feeling well rested and ready to move up the mountain. With clear weather beckoning, the team plans to ascend to 16,200 feet today to put in their third cache.
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 2: Our second Denali team is off to a strong start. Yesterday they made a carry to their first cache at 9,400 feet, and camped last night at 7,800 feet. With group laughter audible in the background, guide Dawn Glanc reported over the satellite phone, "Everyone is doing really well and having a great time so far!"
May 19, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 7: With the third cache established successfully yesterday, the team is taking a final rest day today at their 14,200 camp. The forecast calls for clear skies through tomorrow, and the climbers hope to use that window to reach High Camp (17,200 feet), picking their cache at 16,200 feet along the way. This will be their last move before the summit bid. Depending on the weather, the group may try to summit on Saturday.
May 20, 2005
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 3: Team #2 is having a spectacular climb so far. They've had beautiful weather the whole way, and all climbers are feeling happy and healthy. The group arrived at Camp 2 (11,000 feet) yesterday at 5:00 pm, after taking the morning to retrieve their cache at 9700 feet. Today the plan is to make a carry to 13,500 feet to put in the second cache.
Guide Joey Elton reports great conditions and high spirits among team members. He told us, "One client said it best just as we were getting up to 11,000 feet when he remarked, 'The immensity of the Alaska Range reminds one of how small we are in the world.' "
May 21, 2005
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 4: Yesterday the group successfully deposited the cache at 13,500 feet and then returned to their 11,000-foot camp for the night. They enjoyed great conditions throughout the day until weather came in yesterday evening. After a night of cold temperatures (-12 C) and falling snow, the team woke to high winds and 30 cm of accumulated snowfall this morning. They will spend the day in camp waiting out the weather and enjoying a rest day.
The group hopes to move up to the 14,200-foot camp tomorrow, though it's questionable if conditions will allow it. The forecast suggests they may be socked in until Monday.
May 22, 2005
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 5: The group spent one more day at Camp 2 (11,000 feet) due to the storm. Despite this, guide Dawn Glanc says the team has been productive and has kept up their activity levels by digging out the camp's bathroom and kitchen! Everyone is hoping the weather will clear tomorrow so they can make the move up to Camp 3 (14,200 feet).
May 24, 2005
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28 Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28 Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4 This morning, shortly after leaving Windy Corner at 13,600 feet, Tim got news over the radio that several climbers from another expedition had fallen into a crevasse and needed assistance. Tim and the rest of the group were closest to the site and were first on the scene. A few more climbers arrived shortly afterward, and together the rescuers were able to build snow anchors, set up hauling systems, and haul the three climbers and their gear out of the crevasse in less than 45 minutes. Only one of the three fallen climbers had been roped to team members and the other two had fallen 50 feet onto another snow bridge spanning the chasm below. They were all very lucky to walk away virtually unscathed. Apparently all three climbers had been crossing a large snow bridge that failed and resulted in their fall. On a lighter note, Tim proclaimed victory in todays international snowball fight at the 14,200 foot camp. Though his claim may be challenged by the Koreans, members of the Park Service, or perhaps the French team, Tim reports that a camera crew was present so the true winner can be determined at a later date.
Dispatch 8: Andrew Wexler, off-duty AAI Guide, reported passing Dylan and the rest of Team #1 on Friday shortly after he had summited via the West Buttress. Dylan's team was on their way to High Camp. The weather was good for the better part of the two days after Andrew saw them, and he reported hearing radio dispatches indicating that the team had summited successfully. Because of unsettled weather over the last few days, most teams have been pinned down at their camps, and so it is likely that Team #1 has had to sit a day or two at their High Camp waiting for a window to descend back to 14,200, and the capacity to communicate with the outside world. We are eagerly awaiting the news!
Dispatch 9: Tim Connelly, lead guide of Team #2, reported passing Dylan and the rest of Team #1 just below the 14,200' camp yesterday. They were headed to 11,000 feet today and hopefully to basecamp by tomorrow (May 25). Tim said it sounded like everyone was able to summit! We are still awaiting the official word.
Dispatch 6: The weather cleared yesterday as everyone on the mountain had hoped, and Team #2 was able to move to 14,200 feet. Earlier today the group picked up their cache at 13,500 feet, which puts them in a great position. Everyone is in good health and tomorrow they plan to put in their cache at 16,200 feet.
May 25, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 1: Team #1 reported passing Jason Martin, Joseph Anderson, and the members of Expedition #3 at about the 9000' level yesterday. They were able to get onto the glacier on their scheduled day (May 22) and had two days of bad weather right off the bat. Now that things have cleared, they have been making good time, and they are planning to move to 11,000 feet today and pick up their cache at 10,000' tomorrow. Once they are at the 14,200' camp they will be able to call in and provide some additional details.
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
Dispatch 10: Dylan called from Talkeetna and everyone is off the mountain safe and sound after summiting on Sunday the 25th. Great news and congratulations to everyone. More details of the climb and descent will be posted as the team gets settled in and unpacked.
May 26, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 2: "The weather is deteriorating and the visibility is pretty bad" Jason Martin yelled into his phone, trying hard to overcome the background noise the wind was creating. As of 3:00 pm, the team was at Kahiltna Pass (10,000') retrieving their cache of gear and in the process of moving back up to their camp, now positioned at 11,000 feet. They would like to move their next load of gear around Windy Corner (which is living up to its name right now!) and move up to 13,500 feet in the next couple of days. The weather forecast is marginal at this point, and it's definitely possible that the conditions could keep them at 11,000 feet for a few days.
The team has had several days of hard work thanks to recent snowfall and of course - the always heavy loads. Jason said, "Today we exchanged our usual good morning greetings for comments about the additional amount of work we now have ahead of us because of the fresh snow." Despite the hard work, he said team spirit and motivation both remain high. If weather allows the expedition to move, the next report from Team #3 will probably be from the 14,200-foot camp in a few days.
May 27, 2005
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 7: Team #2 called in last night from the 14,200-foot camp in the midst of stormy weather. They have been at this camp since the 24th due to constant winds and lots of fresh snow. Yesterday they thought they might get a chance to move when the weather suddenly cleared during lunch, but by 2:00 it was raging again. The group was planning on moving to high camp today, weather depending. Guide Dawn Glanc said the upper mountain looks "a little on the wild and stormy side." She said for now they were just going to hunker down, make some burritos and warm drinks, and try to get a good night's sleep despite the winds.
Denali Expedition 1: West Buttress, May 8 - May 28
With everyone from Expedition #1 safely down off the mountain and on their way back home, we've been able to get the details of their successful summit push from High Camp. We interviewed guide Dylan Taylor shortly after he had landed in Seattle after his flight from Anchorage.
Things were looking a bit grim for the group on Friday when they moved to High Camp. They had already spent six nights above 14,000 feet, and the weather forecast for the next few days was not looking good. Dylan recalls, "I wanted to push everyone to try to beat the weather, but we had to spend a lot of time building camp because of all the new snow and the potential storms ahead." Saturday procurred a blizzard, and the group built up their camp walls even more because the forecast called for high winds that afternoon. The group spent the day in their tents out of the wind, waiting. Dylan remembers, "I was worried we were going to have bad weather for a long time, but at 5 am on Sunday morning it suddenly became calm and my tent stopped shaking. It soon became windy again, but by 7 am it seemed to have calmed down for good. I woke everyone up and we began getting ready to leave for the summit. At 11 am we just went for it, and left High Camp in a long line of people."
The group climbed all day through warm, foggy weather. "There was a lot of blue ice on the way to the summit," Dylan said, "it was definately nerve-wracking." Despite the ice, they reached the summit at 8:30 pm. "It was very gratifying to be up there. Everyone felt pretty good - one climber had a bad headache, but we only stayed on top for about 5 minutes and she felt much better when we descended." Dylan estimates that about 30 climbers summitted that day, which is part of the reason that they did not stay on the summit for very long, as there was not much room. "It was clear on top, but all we could see were the clouds below us - pretty beautiful," Dylan described for us, "It was also very cold on the summit."
The team descended back to High Camp by midnight and fell into sleep. They headed out the next day at 10 am and went all the way down to 11,000 feet, on the edge of incoming weather. On Tuesday the group completed the last stretch and reached Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. They had to wait until skies cleared on Wednesday before flying out, bringing their epic climb to a close safely and successfully. Everyone here at AAI would like to extend our congratulations to Expedition #1 - what an accomplishment!
May 28, 2005
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 8: The group has been at the 14,200-foot camp for several days now. Today they made an attempt to move up to High Camp (17,200), but had to turn around just below the fixed lines due to heavy winds and snowy conditions. Though there has been word that a few parties have been able to summit in the last day or two, most teams have been stuck at High Camp or the 14,200-foot camp for a while.
Team #2 will hopefully be able to ascend to High Camp tomorrow or Monday. Monday will be their last attempt to move up the mountain before dwindling time and supplies necessitate their descent.
May 29, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 3: Team #3 called from the 14,200-foot camp this evening. They are glad to be safely through Windy Corner, which has been living up to its name with extremely high winds that actually prevented the team from getting through on their first attempt yesterday. "We fought fiercly to get around Windy Corner," Jason reported, "but it just wasn't happening. Also, there were over a hundred climbers there trying to cache. It was very hectic and we just ended up caching." To make it through safely today, the group had to move quickly because of rockfall danger.
Now at Camp 3, the team is planning on retreiving their cache at Windy Corner tomorrow, and moving up the mountain as soon as weather permits.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 1: All members of Team #4 have been safely flown to the Kahiltna Base Camp! Guide Jeremy Allyn says they "squeaked through in a small window of showery weather". Everyone is psyched to be there, and they plan on getting up early tomorrow morning and doing a single carry to Camp 1 (7,800 feet).
May 30, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 4: Stormy weather continues to cover the upper mountain. Team #3 retrieved their cache from Windy Corner today, and reported extremely high winds and heavily overcast skies. Jason says last night was a cold one, with the temperature inside the tent dropping to 9 degrees F. Today they watched as a helicopter flew a climber from another team off the mountain who had frostbitten fingers.
Jason says that the weather above them looks socked in, but they will move up tomorrow if they can to make their third cache at 16,200 feet.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 2: Team #4 had a "brilliant morning on the lower Kahiltna," according to guide Mark Allen. "We did a single carry in nice weather, though looking up the mountain we saw some very interesting weather come in quite fast." The group is at Camp 1 (7,800'), and is in position to put in their first cache tomorrow at 9,700 feet. Mark reports that the evening's activities included a "delicious dinner and a colorful discussion of world politics."
May 31, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 5: Team #3 is taking a planned rest day at the Camp 3 (14,200') in the midst of some interesting weather patterns. "It's kind of strange, it's been really warm during the day, and very cold at night," Jason describes over the phone. "Yesterday the sun was out and it got up to 91 degrees F in our tents, but during the night it's been below 10 degrees F." When Jason called it was snowing lightly, and the forecast for the next couple of days calls for cloudy skies and some snowfall.
Last night one of the team members, Mike Boyer, presented to the group a set of prayer flags that his mother made. Her instructions were for each climber to sign and write encouraging notes on them, then to hang them in their camp for inspiration and good luck. Thank you to Mrs. Boyer for such a thoughtful gift!
On another note, Jason said earlier today the team undertook a "community service project" for the greater good - building a snow wall around the toilet at Camp 3. "The toilet is out in the open, right in the middle of camp," Jason said, "so we decided to take a couple of hours and create some privacy for everyone." Team #2 apparently attempted this feat a week or two ago, but was delayed in their snow shoveling every time one of the many climbers at Camp 3 had to use the toilet. Jason's team devised another solution. They pre-cut large blocks of packed snow from a distance, loaded them up on sleds, and brought them over to the toilet area. Then in one, swift action they constructed a sturdy barrier between the toilet and the eyes of camp. This dramatic act was much applauded across the expanse of Camp 3! Way to go, Team #3!
June 1, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 6: Guide Jason Martin called in at 5:30 Alaska time to report that Team #3 had returned to their 14,000-foot camp an hour earlier after establishing a cache at 16,200 feet today. The night had been a good, mild one. One person got an in-tent reading of 6 degrees F, but Jason thought his tent was even warmer. He reported, "We left this morning at 9:40 and made it to the top of the Buttress by 1:00 p.m. Temperatures were mild - probably in the teens - but it was blowing hard and pretty cold. Everyone did a great job and is feeling strong. After setting up our cache, we located and were able to dig out the snow cave that was used on the first winter ascent of Denali and described by Art Davidson in his book "Minus 148 Degrees." Jason said several members of the team had read the book and were excited to step into the cave where the climbers survived unheard-of low temperatures for about a week. He said, "There was nothing in there, but you could still see marks of foams pads etched in the floor. It's big enough for 6 or 7 people to stay in it, and it was powerful to stand in there and imagine what those climbers had gone through." The low snow year of the past winter is bringing all kinds of revelations on the mountain.
Team 3 spent about two hours at 16,200 feet, exploring and acclimatizing. It cleared later in the day as they descended the Buttress, and by late afternoon they were enjoying very warm temperatures in the sun (the interior of one tent hit 91 degrees F!). At the end of the call Jason described the scene, "It's so peaceful compared to the morning, and the clouds are all below us now. Foraker and Hunter are sticking up through the clouds, and we are all enjoying a beautiful evening. We're looking forward to our move to 17,200 feet tomorrow."
The forecast for June 2 is for clouds, scattered snow showers, and 15 mph winds. The team expects to occupy the camp at 17,200 feet for up to five days while they await an opportunity to make a summit bid.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 3: Guide Jeremy Allyn called from the 7,800-foot camp last night at 9:30. He said the team successfully placed their first cache at 9,700 feet, then came back down to camp at 7,800 feet for one more night. They had warm weather all day, which meant slow going through wet, heavy snow. Jeremy said the weather higher on the mountain looks fairly decent, with the sun shining thinly through a slightly overcast sky. The team plans on moving to Camp 2 (11,000') today, weather regardless.
On their way up to the cache yesterday, Jeremy said the team was pleased to come across an array of climbing parties representing different parts of the world. "There are teams from Mexico, Spain, Italy, a National Geographic team from Australia, and groups from each of the different guide services that has a concession on the mountain," Jeremy said, "It's been a lot of fun to meet all these people."
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 9: After three days of silence, Team #2 was able to call late last night from the 17,200-foot High Camp. "It's blowing really bad up here," guide Tim Connelly reported, "It cleared up for a while after we got here on Sunday, then we took a rest day on Monday and it started up again." Yesterday was the team's first scheduled summit day, but they were stalled due to zero visibility and high winds that reached up to 30 mph. "It's been really cold," Tim said, "This morning at 10am the temperature was 2 degrees F, and the forecast calls for a drop to negative 10 F."
The team is biding their time, but there is not much more to spare before they must descend. Hopefully, the skies will clear enough that the team will get their chance at the summit today or tomorrow.
June 2, 2005
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4
Dispatch 10: Today is the last day Team #2 has to try for the summit before they must begin their descent back to Base Camp. Guide Joey Elton called late in the day yesterday and explained, "It's pretty socked in right now. If it's not clear tomorrow morning, we're going to descend and will fly out of the Kahiltna base by Friday. If the weather is nice in the morning we will attempt to summit, and then we'll get back down to the base by Saturday to fly out." Joey said the group is doing really well and staying active. He and two clients descended to 16,200 feet to retrieve the cache, while back at High Camp the rest of the group went on a "walkabout" to get some excercise. They have been at High Camp now for five days, and have spent much of that time in their tents sheltered from the weather.
We eagerly await news from Team #2 and should know sometime today whether they went for the summit or had to descend.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 4: Team #4 called this morning at 11:00 from Camp 2 (11,000'). Guide Jeremy Allyn said the group left Camp 1 (7,800') yesterday in a complete whiteout and arrived at Camp 2 at about 5:30pm, picking up their cache at 9,700 feet on the way. "It was pretty awesome," said Jeremy, "As soon as we got above 10,500 feet all the clouds were below us, and it's been clear ever since." The team is currently enjoying a beautiful morning in camp. Jeremy said the conditions on the upper mountain look clear and not too windy, which is good news for Team #2.
Team #4 plans to relax for a little while longer, then head down to retrieve the rest of their 9,700-foot cache. Tomorrow, they will take a deserved rest day, and on Saturday make a cache above Windy Corner at 13,500 feet.
June 3, 2005
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4 - [SUMMIT]
Dispatch 11: We received the following message at 5:58 p.m. Alaska time, June 2:
"This is Joey Elton calling you from the 20,320-foot summit of Denali, the highest point in North America. We were successful in our attempt to make the summit today. We left at 9:30 this morning and just summited about one minute ago. It's -19 F, though feels warmer."
"The skies are for the most part clear, with a mid level layer of clouds below us. We see Foraker and Hunter and the Kahiltna Peaks rising through the clouds beautifully. The views are spectacular."
"We are all in great spirits as you can imagine. All but one climber made it. This is a group of people that worked wonderfully together as a team. The climbers here are from all over the country and one from Europe, and they all came together wonderfully as a team, helping each other as we gradually moved up the mountain, and now sharing in this incredible moment."
"There's no better place to be! And it's all downhill from here! Wow. Everyone is absolutely thrilled, including myself. We're absolutely thrilled to be here. Pictures are being taken like crazy. Congratulations and hugs are being exchanged. There are a lot of pats on the back. This is a wonderful moment that no one will ever forget. We feel absolutely great. Each team member sends their love to their families. We miss you, and we'll see you soon."
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11 "Today is clear and beautiful, but after yesterday's push, we have to take a rest day. We're feeling good and we hope to summit in a day or two."
Dispatch 7: Guide Jason Martin called at 10:05 a.m., June 3, to report that they had been able to keep to their plan and climb to and occupy high camp yesterday afternoon, June 2. Jason reported, "It was a huge day with heavy packs, and we reached camp at 9:00 p.m. It ended up being a beautiful day, and it felt warm, but at camp it was -30 F when we arrived. We had trouble melting snow last night for water. We had four stoves working one big pot of snow and it seemed to take forever."
June 4, 2005
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 6: Team #4 called tonight (5:15 p.m. Alaska time). In his message Jeremy Allyn said, "We just got back from doing our carry to 13,500 feet. It was a challenging day - we were climbing in thigh-deep snow the whole way, breaking trail. It was a pretty big day for everyone. We're going to try to move up tomorrow. Folks are pretty worked, but would like to move." We saw Tim at 11:30 last night as he and Team #2 were moving down. They descended in pretty full-on conditions, but were very excited about their success, and they didn't seem very bothered by the awful weather. It was good to see them and we hope to see Jason and the crew of Team #3 soon. We'll try to call tomorrow. That's it for now."
Denali Expedition 2: West Buttress, May 15 - June 4 - [FINAL]
Dispatch 12: Tim Connelly called this morning to report that Team #2 had happily made it off the mountain after the long decent. Tim said, "We left our high camp at 17,200 last night [June 3] at 9:00 p.m. and arrived at 6:00 a.m. this morning. We took a break at 14,000 feet and had some bagel sandwiches with bacon and cheese, but this is a strong team and everybody wanted to get to the KIA [the glacier landing strip on the Kahiltna, referred to as the Kahiltna International Airport or KIA] as early as possible this morning to maximize our chances of getting off. It all worked fine, and I was the last one off at 11:30 this morning." Last heard they were in Talkeetna doing some serious eating and looking forward to their first showers. Congratulations to Team #2 for your patience in waiting out the storms at 17,200 feet and your ten-person summit success in a small window of opportunity!
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 5: Team #4 called last night (June 3, 9:36 p.m. Alaska time) from Camp 2 (11,000'). Guide Mark Allen reported, "Today- Friday - has been a rest day for us. We began the day late and had a 3-course breakfast, with a main course of bacon, eggs, and hash browns. It was all complimented by Tony's Coffee from Bellingham. All quite excellent, and we'd say a long time coming. We've been working very hard for quite a few days. We are right on schedule and quite pleased about that. Today was a morale booster day. We've had great weather all day and excellent views of Foraker, Crosson, Kahiltna Dome, and all down the way down the Kahiltna.
"We've been getting to ready to put in a cache at 13,800 feet tomorrow. Right now we're in a little storm, and we're crossing our fingers that it eases up and we can move up tomorrow. We might have to take a weather day, but hopefully we'll have a break. We have some spare days, but we'd like to keep moving. Wish us luck."
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 7: Team #4 is currently at Camp 3 (14,200') and enjoying clear weather on the upper mountain. Guide Jeremy Allyn says today they will descend to pick up their cache at 13,500 and then return to Camp 3. Tomorrow the team plans to put in their high cache at 16,200 feet, and Wednesday they will take a rest day. Jeremy says everyone is feeling strong and recovered from the difficult carry and bad weather over the weekend.
June 6, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 8: Guide Jason Martin called Sunday night June 5th to report that Team #3 had considered a summit attempt on Saturday but didn't try it because it was just too cold. They made an attempt yesterday (Sunday the 5th) but didn't make it. A couple of people couldn't stay warm and had to turn around part way up, and then just below the summit a case of AMS turned the other group around. They were planning to move to the 14,000-foot camp Monday, June 6. We should hear from them again soon.
June 7, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 9: Guide Jason Martin called early this morning (6:00 Alaska time) to say that Team #3 descended to 11,000 feet after a long push yesterday. He said that everyone slept extremely well last night and feels ready to hike the remaining 10 miles to Base Camp. The team hopes to make it all the way to the base by the end of today, and plans to fly off the glacier as soon as weather permits. We wish them a safe journey for the remainder of their trip off the mountain!
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib, June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 1: Guide Seth Hobby called today to say that the West Rib Expedition is well underway. The team is currently at Camp 1 (7,800'), and successfully put in their first cache today at 9,700 feet. The group plans to move up to Camp 2 (11,000') tomorrow.
Due to unusually icy conditions on the mountain, this expedition will be climbing the Upper West Rib. These conditions were created by an odd year of weather, with low snowfall through much of the winter, followed by substantial snowfall in the spring. AAI flew over the West Rib route twice to check it out before beginning the expedition, and found that high winds had blown away most of the new snow off the steeper faces. With an ice layer underneath, the snow couldn't maintain adherence in the winds. We have also spoke with parties who have attempted to climb the route this season, and observations and reports all confirm that the route is in very difficult shape because of the lack of snow and subsequently exposed ice, especially on the lower half of the route. Because of this, this year's expedition will follow the West Buttress route up to the 14,200-foot camp, where they will break away and begin their climb on the upper rib.
June 8, 2005
Denali Expedition 3: West Buttress, May 22 - June 11
Dispatch 10: We received a call yesterday evening from Jason reporting that Team #3 had successfully descended to the base. They were flown off the glacier yesterday afternoon and are now back in Talkeetna safe and sound.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 8: Team #4 is currently hunkered down in their tents at Camp 3 (14,200') due to heavy snowfall and winds up to 50 mph. Guide Jeremy Allyn said they might be there for a while. "The forecast doesn't look good for Thursday or Friday, or through the weekend. We have plenty of food so we're just going to lay low, rest, and feast until the weather looks better."
June 9, 2005
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 9: Guide Mark Allen called in late last night, at the end of the team's second rest day at 14,200 feet. "We had our first weather day on the mountain," Mark said, "We really got pounded today with snow, wind, and low visibility. There's been up to 18 inches of accumulation in the last 24 hours. We've mostly been hanging out in our tents, reading books, eating lots of grilled cheese sandwiches, and occassionally going outside to dig and move around. We're hoping for a small window in the weather tomorrow to make our carry to the 16,000-foot ridge where we'd like to make our cache. All in all, we're having a good time, laughing a lot, and will move when we can."
Three members of the group would like to send messages home to their families and friends:
Steve Evans - "Hello to my family, I miss you and can't wait to see you again. To my girls, there is AWESOME snowfort building up here...you can make snowblocks as big as houses if you want to! Lots of snow angels too. Alright, I'll see you all soon."
Bobby Smith - "To Jamie, you're my best guy buddy. To Zibby, you're my sweet honey. To Laurie, you're my love, and Happy Aniversary. Also, hello to my brother, my sister, and my mother, and to all my workmen, thanks for holding down the fort while I'm gone!"
Bruce Meister - "Hi Benjamin, Daddy's on the mountain! Hi Pam, I miss you! To the guys at work, suffering from 113 degree heat, it's 0 degrees here!! But don't worry, I'll be back soon to suffer with you."
June 10, 2005
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 11: With a very small break in the stormy weather, Team #4 was able to get up the fixed lines from Camp 3 and put in their cache at 16,200 feet. The route was apparently very icy and "exciting", as guide Jeremy Allyn put it, and he said everyone in the group did very well. Jeremy called today at 5:30pm after the team returned to camp and said the weather was starting to cloud over once again.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 10: Guide Mark Allen called in at 10pm last night (June 9), to say that the team continues to wait through the storm at Camp 3. The group had hoped to put in a cache at 16,300 feet yesterday. Mark said, "Jeremy and some guides from AMS made a valiant attempt to recon the headwall and fixed lines. They left at 8am and within 30 minutes the winds went from about 15 mph to 30 mph. So, with horizontally blowing snow and extremely poor visibility, they decided to abort." Mark said the team hung out in their tents most of the day, minus a later attempt to move when a "sucker hole" opened up in the sky, falsely promising them a window of good weather. "We were all geared up and psyched to move, but when we arrived at the bottom of the fixed lines the weather went south once again and we had to turn back to camp." Mark said they received word that a second storm is supposed to come in soon, so the team has been at work building up walls in preparation. "We're pretty much planning to hunker down in camp for the next few days and make the most of it."
Bobby Smith wishes to add to the message he sent out yesterday: "Hi to Joey and Jonathon, and to my doctor, and all my good friends following my progress!"
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib, June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 2: We received a message late last night from guide Seth Hobby. The West Rib Team is currently camped at 11,000 feet. They have been there since the afternoon of the 8th. Yesterday, the team descended to retrieve their cache at 9,700 feet. Seth said visibility has gone in and out ever since the third day of the trip, when the sunny skies enjoyed on Day #1 and #2 grew dark and clouded over. Seth said the visibility has been averaging about 200 feet, and the winds have been blowing at a constant 30 mph. If weather allows today, the group will put in their cache at 13,500 feet.
June 12, 2005
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18 The team was treated to some rest-day entertainment from the comfort of their camp. Andrew Wexler,
off-duty AAI guide, skied (or shredded, as Jeremy put it!) the headwall above that rises above the
14,200-foot camp. The
headwall is nearly 2000 feet of 45-50 degree snow and ice. Thanks to the recent
accumulation and fresh powder, the snow conditions were perfect and his turns nearly so! This will be Team #4's last dispatch for the next few days. They are headed to high camp today
and hope to make an attempt on the summit by Tuesday. The forecast is favorable, and with many
teams sharing the trail breaking duties, Jeremy feels very optimistic about their chances.
Dispatch 12: Guide Jeremy Allyn called to say that the team was doing well after a rest day at
14,200 feet. As everyone thought, the clouds continued to close in Friday, and by Saturday morning, ten inches of
fresh snow had fallen on the camp. The storm cleared out by mid-afternoon on Saturday,
leaving blue skies, calm winds, and more pleasant temperatures in its place. Jeremy said that
during the earlier part of the day the winds were absolutely
ripping on the upper mountain and a fierce looking lenticular had been capping the summit.
June 13, 2005
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 14: Team #4 decided to head down today from their camp at 14,000 feet. They could be back at the
landing strip Tuesday night, but their speed of descent will depend on conditions. This report came from the
West Rib team.
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib, June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 4: Guide Seth Hobby phoned today to give us the final details on the team's decision to split
into two separate groups. Seth, Kevin Krupp, and John Matthews will continue via the upper West Rib,
while Marc Nagel, John Romersa, Sophia Danenberg, and Dave Danenberg move up the West Buttress with AAI
guides Matt Anderson and Mark Allen (who just moved over to help from Denali Expedition #4).
After their arrival at camp on Friday, the Rib team took a rest day on Saturday and enjoyed a full day of eating and sleeping. In the afternoon, the entire Messner Couloir, a 5000-foot chute directly above the 14,200' camp, released in a massive slab avalanche that blasted all of the tents at 14,200 feet. Seth, an eye-witness to many an Alaskan avalanche, said "It was enormous, the biggest slide I have seen in a long time."
Today is Kevin Krupp's birthday. Happy Birthday Kevin! The group is making a cheesecake to celebrate, and they plan to deliver a homemade birthday card over a big dinner tonight.
Seth and his group will take a rest day Tuesday, and on Wednesday they hope to make a cache at what will be their high camp on the West Rib at 16,200 feet. If they are able to make their cache and move up without delay, the team would be in position to summit this weekend.
Matt Anderson, Mark Allen, and the other four climbers plan to make a cache at 16,200 feet on the West Buttress Tuesday and then take a rest day on Wednesday. The weather and snow conditions are still unsettled, but all reports are calling for high pressure and at least a few clear days in the near future.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 13: Team #4 called in last night after returning to the 14,200-foot camp. Yesterday afternoon
the group attempted to move up to High Camp (17,200') but were stopped and turned around by harsh
conditions (temperatures at minus 10 F and winds around 30 to 40 mph). We should hear more from the
team later today.
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib, June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 3: The West Rib Team called in yesterday to report their successful arrival at Camp 3
(14,200'). Because the conditions on the Upper West Rib are unusually technical this year, the team has
decided to split into two groups based on comfort and skill level. One group will consist of two climbers
and one guide and will attempt the upper rib route. The other group - four climbers and two guide - will
attempt to summit via the West Buttress route. We should hear more specifics about this plan later
today.
June 16, 2005
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib/ West Buttress June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 6: Guide Seth Hobby called today at 11:15am from the 14,200-foot camp. He was happy to report that the weather was great and was supposed to hold through today and tomorrow, then turn worse on Saturday. With this forecast, both the West Buttress and the West Rib groups will be attempting to summit very soon. In fact, Seth had heard word that the West Buttress group (of the West Rib Expedition), climbing with guides Matt Anderson and Mark Allen, was leaving from High Camp for the summit in a half-hour!
Seth's group will be leaving today for their high camp on the West Rib (about 16,200'), where they have also left a cache. Tomorrow, they will embark for the summit. We wish luck to both these teams in the next couple of days.
June 15, 2005
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib/ West Buttress June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 5: Guide Matt Anderson called in today with good news. He and Mark Allen, guides for the group heading up the West Buttress, were successful at putting in their cache Tuesday at 16,200 feet. Matt called today as the team was just heading up the fixed lines from the 14,200-foot camp (Camp 3) on their way to occupy high camp at 17,200 feet. They may pick up some supplies from their cache on the way up or just wait until they need them. They have six days of supplies cached at 16,200 feet, so they are in an excellent position to wait out bad weather if it returns to the mountain. Today presented fairly good weather underneath a high, overcast sky, the team thought their chances of getting to high camp were excellent.
Matt said that Seth's team (the group heading up the upper West Rib) has been waiting at Camp 3 for the snow to settle. This will allow them a few days of rest before the strenuous undertaking ahead.
Denali Expedition 4: West Buttress, May 29 - June 18
Dispatch 15: Jeremy called from Talkeetna to report that Expedition #4 had made it off the mountain. They descended from 14,000 feet to the 7800-foot camp on Monday. Jeremy said, "We broke trail the whole way. We had the route to ourselves. It was surreal to feel like we had the entire mountain to ourselves. It was a wonderful day." Tuesday they descended from 7800 feet to base camp, leaving at 7:00 a.m. and arriving at the landing area on the glacier at 9:30 a.m. Jeremy also noted that "base camp was pretty well empty. It is strange to have so few people around." The weather has taken its toll, and a lot of teams have left the mountain. He said, "The weather looked good up high today, but we heard at base camp that most everyone who tried for the summit were turned around by the wind. At any rate, we gave it a good shot and now we are glad to be back. We all look forward to talking with family and friends."
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 1: This first dispatch from Team #6 came via Jeremy Allyn of Team #4. "Team 6 is doing great. They're on a night schedule and are enjoying the excellent conditions on the lower mountain. Ben wanted to pass on the following message to his wife: 'Hello sweetheart. Everything is fine here. We did a carry to 10,000 feet on Monday night and it went very well. We got back to camp at 5:00 for dinner while team #4 was just getting up for breakfast. I'll try to send another message when we are higher on the mountain.' "
June 17, 2005
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib/ West Buttress June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 7: Seth Hobby called today at 4:30 p.m. from the 14,200-foot camp to report that he and Kevin
Cannon had made a summit attempt today in good weather, only to be thwarted by Kevin's misfortune of
getting a bad AMS headache. They had moved to high camp on June 16 as planned and were ready to go
for the summit in good weather. They are both planning to start down tonight or in the morning.
Kevin is feeling a lot better, but will be even more comfortable further down the mountain. For his
part, Seth now has a viral infection in his lungs (diagnosed by a physician at 14,000 feet) that
didn't respond at all to a course of cephalexin. They both are now looking forward to the comforts
of lower altitude.
Seth speculates that the climbers on the West Buttress probably went for the summit today. They may have radio contact tonight, and if they do, they will pass any news on. If there is no news, it just means radio communication did not work.
June 19, 2005
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib/ West Buttress June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 8: The West Buttress contingent of the West Rib expedition reached the summit on June 16th with guides Matt Anderson and Mark Allen. They were able to call in a report on the 18th and said they had "a nice warm day with very little wind" and that time on the summit was a very pleasant thing indeed. As predicted, the weather has deteriorated. Seth Hobby reported that the winds really picked up on the afternoon of the 17th and that by the 18th, they were enduring winds and "snow that turns to water" as soon as it hits the tent. He speculated that because it is so strangely warm, it was probably raining on the lower glacier. The group is now at 11,200 comfortable but stuck for the moment because of the weather. They will move to the landing strip as soon as conditions improve, but that timing is hard to predict right now. Seth said that during breaks in the storm they can observe Father and Sons Wall and that the huge amounts of spindrift blowing across the face look like huge Hawaiian waves. He described the upper mountain as looking pretty bad for the moment.
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 2: This second dispatch from Team #6 came via Seth Hobby of Team #5. "Team #6 is all set up and very secure at the 11,200-foot camp. The weather is awful at the moment, but they know things will change and they are psyched to move up the mountain when they can. The focus is on good food, hydration, and rest. All is well."
June 20, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 3: Team #6 now has a satellite phone! Guide Dawn Glanc called Sunday evening to give us a firsthand update on the team's progress. Dawn called from Camp 2 (11,200') and said the team was planning on moving up to Camp 3 (14,200') today if weather permits. Here is a brief summary of what the group has been up to since their arrival at the Kahiltna Base Camp:
Day 1: Flew into Base Camp in the evening, had dinner, and afterwards made a single carry to the camp at 7,800 feet. Dawn said it was a great camp, very comfortable. The team right away adopted a night schedule - due to the intense heat on the glacier during the day - in which they move at night and sleep during the day.
Day 2: The team successfully put in a cache at 10,000 feet. Everyone did very well despite the cold and windy conditions.
Day 3: The group moved to Camp 2 (11,000'). Dawn said they were able to move very conveniently into a camp that had been vacated the day prior. She said it was very "cush", as they did not have to spend any time digging tent platforms or building walls - which was a good thing because everyone was pretty wiped out from the day's climb.
Day 4: After a sleeping in and having a good meal, the team went down to retreive their cache at 10,000 feet.
Day 5: Still climbing on a night schedule, the group made a cache at 13,500 feet. Dawn said it was very cold, though conditions were great and Windy Corner proved to be uncharacteristically easy. At the cache, the group witnessed not only an amazingly beautiful sunset but also were spectators to a gorgeous sunrise as well. Dawn said between the sunset/sunrise and the spectacular views of Foraker and Hunter, there was a great deal of picture-taking going on.
Day 6: After attempting to move up to the 14,200-foot camp, the team had to turn around due to extremely high winds and a storm pending on the horizon. They returned to Camp 2 (11,000') and set camp back up just as the weather moved in.
Day 7 and 8: Weather days! Dawn reports that during these two days in camp, "A lot of snow has fallen, very wet snow. We have been eating as much as we can, playing cards, reading books, and just waiting for better weather. Hopefully tomorrow, Day 9, we will be able to move to Camp 3. From here on out, we're switching to a day schedule, so we'll head out tomorrow morning, weather permitting, and hopefully arrive at Camp 3 at a reasonable hour. It'd be great to find a vacated, established camp waiting for us again! Everyone is doing very well, and we'll be calling again soon with more news."
Denali Expedition 7: West Buttress June 19 - July 9, 2005
Dispatch 1: We received a call from guide Joseph Anderson this morning. Team #7 has been unable to fly onto the glacier due to stormy weather over the weekend and is still waiting in Talkeetna. Their window of opportunity may come later today as the forecast calls for clearing skies. Joseph said that if they don't fly out today, then it's almost positive tomorrow will bring the necessary clear weather.
June 21, 2005
Denali Expedition 7: West Buttress June 19 - July 9, 2005
Dispatch 2: The bad weather has passed and this last expedition of the season was able to fly to base camp yesterday in the evening.
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 4: Guides Dawn Glanc and Seth Hobby from Team #6 called last night (10:30pm Alaska time, June 20) to say that the group was still at the 11,000-foot camp. Seth recently joined up with the team after his descent off the West Rib and will be going up the mountain with them. The team had intended to move up to 14,200 feet on the 20th, but they woke to a couple feet of fresh snow and continuous, whipping winds. Seth said that while it was very stormy and windy all night long, "It didn't keep us awake, fortunately. We didn't even have to get up to dig out." The snow continued to fall throughout the morning with zero visibility, so the climbers spent the day digging out their tents and improving their camp's snow walls. "Around 3:00pm a north wind started up and blew off the cloud layer that was sitting around us," Seth said, "but it was too late to move up, especially considering all the fresh snow and trail-breaking ahead." Guide Dawn Glanc said the team is looking forward to moving up to Camp 3 today, and everyone is very optimistic about the predicted good weather for the next few days.
It sounds like the group is enjoying a wilderness experience uncharacteristic of Denali during this time of year. "It feels like we have the mountain to ourselves," Seth described; "it feels so extremely remote. Lots of climbers have left." The group has been treated with an especially breathtaking display - the daily rising and setting of the sun. "The sunrises and sunsets have been unbelievable from up here. The sun sets at about 11:30pm, only to rise again at 12:30am, so we get to see both in a relatively short period of time. It's fantastic. Also, the alpenglow is drawn out way longer than most people are used to because it takes the sun so much longer to set from this latitude." [editor's note: Because the angle of setting and rising is so acute in relationship to the plane of the earth's horizon in high latitudes, twilight is greatly prolonged after setting and before sunrise. In contrast, when we climb the low latitudes of Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia, climbers are struck by how extremely quickly the day goes to night and vice versa. It's dramatic enough to make you adjust your schedule if you don't want to be doing a lot of tasks by headlamp.]
Denali Expedition 5: West Rib/ West Buttress June 5 - June 26
Dispatch 9: Everyone from the West Rib expedition (including the West Buttress contingent) flew safely off the mountain yesterday evening.
June 22, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 6: We received news from Team #6 just a few minutes ago (12:30pm Alaska time)! Guide Joey
Elton said the group is leaving the 14,200-foot camp in five minutes to do a back-carry from their
cache near Windy Corner. Guide Dawn Glanc said, "The weather for the time being is gorgeous. There
are big, beautiful clouds down below us and up here it's sunny, bright and warm. It's 50 degrees in the
shade. We're wearing just one layer of capilene and are very comfortable. It's going to be a hot
afternoon on the glacier!" Tomorrow the team hopes to establish a new cache at 16,200 feet.
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 5: Guide Jonathan Spitzer called about midnight last night from Camp 3. After several weather days at 11,200 feet the clouds lifted and the team was able to ascend to 14,200 feet with beautiful skies overhead. Jonathan said, "We had such an awesome day...everyone was happy and having a great time. We were overwhelmed with the views once we got up to 14,000 feet. Foraker and Hunter were crystal clear." Today the team plans on doing a backcarry to pick up their cache at 13,500 feet.
Denali Expedition 7: West Buttress June 19 - July 9, 2005
Dispatch 3: Guide Joesph Anderson called from 11,000 feet last night at roughly 10:30pm Alaska time. He reported, "We are currently at Camp 2 (11,000') with all of our gear. It's snowing heavily. After flying in to Base Camp on Day 2 we enjoyed some absolutely beautiful hiking, and it took us three days to get up here to 11,000. All is well, and we'll be in touch soon."
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 7: Guide Jonathan Spitzer called in last night at 8:30pm. He and the rest of Team #6 had just returned to Camp 3 (14,200') after descending to 13,500 to retrieve their cache. Jonathan reported overall good weather with some light snow on the upper mountain. On Tuesday the group spent some time on fixed line practice, and now everyone feels ready and eager to move up to High Camp (17,200') in the next couple of days. Today the group plans to put in their cache at 16,200 feet.
June 24, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 8: Guide Dawn Glance called in this afternoon with great news. Team #6 is currently savoring their last rest day at Camp 3 (14,200') before moving up to High Camp tomorrow. Yesterday the group put in their cache at 16,200 and had their first experience on the fixed lines above Camp 3. Dawn said everyone was very excited because "we all enjoyed getting on the steep ground." From camp climbers first ascend 1,200 feet of moderate terrain then move onto the Headwall which is a steady 45 degrees protected by 800 feet of fixed lines.
Tomorrow the team plans to move up to High Camp at 17,200 feet. For the time being, the weather looks good - mixed cloudy and sunny - but there is word that a storm may be coming in. "We may end up using all 21 days of our trip," Dawn said. "We're going up to High Camp regardless and will wait for a good summit day."
Speaking of summiting, two of the clients on this trip - Katrina Sandling and Rob Follows - and guide Seth Hobby are hoping to summit today. Katrina and Rob very recently returned from an expedition on Mt. Everest and have felt still very well acclimatized. As a result, they were able to move up to High Camp ahead of our normal schedule. Yesterday they moved to 17,200 feet, and today they were going to make a summit bid. Dawn spoke with Seth via radio this morning at 11am and he confirmed that they were planning on leaving for the summit within the next hour.
Denali Expedition 7: West Buttress June 19 - July 9, 2005
Dispatch 4: We received a very short message from guide Aidan Loehr just a few minutes ago at 4:05pm Alaska time (his satellite phone cut out as it does sometimes when the satellite dips below the horizon). He reported that the team is currently at 11,000 feet enjoying a rest day after a yesterday's push to put in the 13,500-foot cache. He described yesterday's trip up to 13,500 feet as "huge...a huge push", and said that it was a major workout due to the immense accumulation of snowfall over the past few days. The team will most likely be moving up to Camp 3 (14,200') in the next day or two.
June 27, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 11: Guide Dawn Glanc just called in at 5pm Pacific time. The team is at High Camp (17,200') and did not attempt to summit today due to high winds (up to 30mph) that began last night. The winds have since died down and the team hopes the currently calm, blue skies will hold for a summit bid tomorrow. The climbers spent all day reinforcing their tents by building up their snow walls and putting in more stakes. Dawn said, "The wind is definately a concern. It's a problem when it gets really windy and cold because you just don't move fast enough to keep yourself warm." Apparently all the climbers at High Camp felt the same way. "It's really quite desolate up here - there's only one other guided party plus about ten other climbers. Not one party left for the summit this morning," Dawn said. The team hopes to try for the summit tomorrow. If not tomorrow then Wednesday, which is the last day they can spend at High Camp before they have to descend.
Denali Expedition 7: West Buttress June 19 - July 9, 2005
Dispatch 5: Guide Joseph Anderson called moments ago (1:45pm) from Camp 3 (14,200'). He said "The expedition is going really well so far. We've got a real hard-charging crew. Besides the fact that everyone is downright strong and capable, they're also all pretty funny and the constant humour is keeping team morale high. We're moving faster than I've ever moved with groups before." Team #7 is currently at Camp 3 with all their gear, after doing a backcarry yesterday to retreive their cache at 13,500 feet. Today the team is enjoying a rest day. Tomorrow they plan to put in a cache at 16,200 feet and hopefully the next day move up to High Camp (17,200'). "The next few days are all weather-dependent," Joseph cautioned. "The forecast calls for scattered clouds, which is basically what we've been having the entire trip except for the one day of heavy snow at 11,000 feet. It's been really nice so far, mostly broken sun and light snow flurries. Today we are feeling our first day of real wind with gusts up to about 30 mph. We have great views of the surrounding landscape but the upper mountain is totally socked in - looks like it'd be pretty stormy up there today."
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 10: Great news just in from guide Seth Hobby. He called just a few minutes ago (1:00pm) to let us know that he, Katrina Sandling, and Rob Follows reached the summit on Friday! Seth, Kat, and Rob moved up the mountain ahead of the rest of the group last week (see Dispatch 8). We currently have no details on their climb except that they descended quickly down the mountain and were safely flown out of Base Camp yesterday. Way to go Seth, Kat, and Rob!
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 9: Team #6 has made it to High Camp (17,200')! We received a call from guide Joey Elton yesterday evening (6:23pm Alaska time) who said that the group had arrived at the camp on Saturday night at 11:30pm, exhausted but exilarated. Joey said, "We had really nasty weather on Saturday morning, so we waited awhile to see what would happen. Conditions didn't really change but we went for it anyways. It took a lot of time to negotiate the fixed lines and the ridge above 16,200 feet. In all it was about an 11 hour day. The team remained in very good spirits despite their exhaustion and the fairly cold temperatures. The ridge between 16,200 feet and 17,200 feet, including the landmark Washburn's Thumb, was definately the most beautiful part of the climb so far. It was really spectacular."
When the group arrived at High Camp they wasted no time setting up camp, and everyone was able to crawl into their sleeping bags by 1am - except for the guides, who stayed up a couple hours longer melting snow for water and getting the camp organized. The whole crew slept in late Sunday morning and enjoyed a rest day at High Camp. Joey said the team was preparing for a possible summit attempt today though the weather didn't look that great as of last night. "It looks pretty gusty up high," Joey said. "We're not sure if we're going to go up Monday morning; we will if we can. We have five days' worth of food and fuel stashed up here, so hopefully we'll get a chance soon to go for it. We're all feeling good and I am so proud of everyone. Saturday was a long, hard day in adverse conditions but everyone still had a great time." Joey said he'd be in touch soon and will probably call tonight.
June 29, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 12: Despite brilliantly sunny skies, Team #6 spent yet another day at 17,200 feet due to high winds. Guide Dawn Glanc called in yesterday evening at 5pm Alaska time and reported, "The winds are being recorded around 25 mph, which is enough to keep us in camp. We hope to make our summit attempt tomorrow though the forecast calls for more of the same - blue skies and high winds. We sent Jon Spitzer (guide) down with a few others to retrieve more supplies from our cache at 16,200 feet, so now we have enough food and fuel to sit up here for two more days and wait for a window of calm weather."
Denali Expedition 7: West Buttress June 19 - July 9, 2005
Dispatch 6: Guide Joseph Anderson called at 3:30pm Alaska time from Camp 3 (14,200'). "It's really cold up here," Joseph said. "Temperatures are well below zero. We tried to build a few snow caves to sleep in for warmth, but after about an hour and a half we gave up. The weather looks good other than the cold - I imagine Team #6 is summiting today. We're staying pretty comfortable, we tried to watch a DVD earlier today but it didn't work out! We've got plenty of food and fuel and plan on moving up soon."
June 30, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 13: We received word from Team #6 last night around dinner time. Guide Dawn Glanc said the group made a summit attempt yesterday but were turned around due to high winds at Denali Pass (18,200'). "We're going to eat dinner, rest up, and make our final attempt for the summit tomorrow," Dawn said. "The weather looks pretty good, a little cloudy but no wind. We're going to try to make it as far as we can and are hoping for the summit!" Today is the team's Day 19. They will hopefully be down the mountain and flying out of the Kahiltna Base Camp on Day 21.
July 1, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Dispatch 14: We received a message from Team #6 yesterday 5pm Alaska time from the summit of Denali! "Hi this is Joey Elton of Denali Expedition #6 calling from the summit! We had one final chance to make it to the top and after eight hours of climbing here we are! The weather this morning was barely good enough to make the attempt, and conditions the whole way up were iffy. No other teams attempted the summit today. We have the mountain completely to ourselves - we haven't seen a soul all day."
Here are some personal messages:
Chris Spurrell: "Hello to my family and friends in California, and to my family back in England!"
Tim Allen: "Hello to all of my family and friends who are thinking about and praying for me!"
Congratulations to the climbing team - we wish you a safe return.
July 5, 2005
Denali Expeditions 6 and 7: Final Dispatch
Team #6 called July 3 and Team #7 called the evening of July 4 from Talkeetna to report that everyone had flown off the mountain and were now in town enjoying showers and restaurant food.
This brings the season to a close, and everyone at AAI would like to pass along their congratulations to all climbers on the 2005 Denali expeditions for the great job they did preparing for the mountain and for the poise with which they climbed during a year of icy conditions and difficult weather. Two teams missed the summit, one because of weather and one because of a case of AMS just below the summit, while five of the seven teams reached the top. The many summit successes are a testament to the care with which each climber prepared for this huge undertaking. Everyone showed both patience and fortitude when the going was tough. Hopefully we can now look forward to some more normal conditions on the mountain next year.
We never mentioned it, but during some time off, AAI guide Andrew Wexler also made a successful ascent of the extremely challenging Cassin Ridge. We look forward to passing on the full story of the climb when Andrew has a chance to write it up.
Denali Expedition 7: West Buttress June 19 - July 9, 2005
Dispatch 7: Guide Joseph Anderson called yesterday (July 4) from the Kahiltna Base Camp to report great news, "On July 2 Team #7 made it to the summit of Denali! It was a breathtaking day on the mountain and we were all very happy to be up there. The conditions were a balmy negative 5 degrees, cloudy, with very little wind. Most of the Alaska Range was covered in clouds but we could see Foraker's beautiful Sultana Ridge pretty clearly. Now we are waiting at Base Camp for our plane ride off the glacier. It's sunny and gorgeous here and spirits are high among the group. We can't wait to get into Talkeetna where cheeseburgers and beer await!"
July 8, 2005
Denali Expedition 6: West Buttress, June 12 - July 2
Guide Joey Elton recently returned to AAI's Bellingham office and gave us a full report on the team's exciting descent off the mountain. Joey said, "After summiting on June 30 and sleeping that night at High Camp, we woke the next morning, July 1, to begin our descent. We were trying to make our July 2 pick up at the Kahiltna Base Camp and we knew it was going to be tight. We headed down the ridge and fixed lines from High Camp and arrived at Camp 3 (14,200 feet) late afternoon. We stayed at Camp 3 for a good four hours resting, reorganizing gear, digging up caches, making water, and eating, and then around 8:30pm left to continue our descent. It was snowing but a nice night for travel - really still with almost no wind. We traveled straight through the night with a few stops at the 11,000-foot and 7,800-foot camps to take short naps and eat, and into the next day. We finally arrived at the Kahiltna Base Camp at 3pm on July 2. In all it was about a 27 hour day! While everyone was obviously tired, it was exciting for the climbers to realize that they were capable of pushing it as hard as we did and traveling for that many hours. It was completely socked it at Base Camp so we waited a few hours for it to clear, which it did, but then it turned out the conditions on the runway were too soft for the plane to land so we ended up spending the night there. We eventually got out the next day, July 3, at 5:30pm and arrived back in Talkeetna at 7pm a day later than planned."
Joey said the entire summit experience and the descent were surreal because they had the mountain almost completely to themselves. "We only saw one or two other people on our summit day. It was the same on our descent, and then at Base Camp we were completely alone. It was an eerie but also a magical way to end the expedition."
Congratulations once again to everyone on Team #6 for a successful and safe expedition!