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Denali - West Buttress: May 10 - 30, 2009 Guides: Dylan Taylor, Lauren Ditolla, Mike Madden Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition: Dispatch #1: May 11 Lead Guide, Dylan Taylor, from Team 2 called this afternoon and reports the following: "We got in (to Basecamp) at about three o'clock yesterday. It was really pleasant when we landed, but it started to get ugly last night." Dylan reported fifty to sixty mile an hour winds at Basecamp. "We had to build walls at the Kahiltna Basecamp. I've never had to do that before. We had french toast for breakfast today and then worked on skills for the remainder of the day. We then reviewed crevasse rescue techniques, snow school and sled rigging. We are planning on eating an early dinner and having an early night. If the weather holds we will do a single carry to Camp 1 tomorrow. Dispatch #2: May 12 Lead Guide, Dylan Taylor, from Team 2 reports the following: (Music blaring in the background) "That's right everyone, we are rocking out in the tent here on Denali at
Camp 1! Everyone is currently asleep in their tents except for us guides,
who are hanging out in our tent eating jelly beans and listening to music. Lauren cooked a delicious pepperoni pasta salad for dinner, which
everyone loved. Dispatch #3: May 13 Lead Guide, Dylan Taylor, from Team 2 reports the following: "Hello everyone back home! This is Dylan calling in from 8,000 ft at Camp 1. We are having a very good time on the route. The temperatures are much warmer and there isn't too much wind anymore. Today we took our gear up to 10,000 ft and everyone did great today. After we got back down Mike Madden cooked a fantastic burrito dinner for everyone. Tomorrow we break down camp and move up to 11,000 ft. Once there we will eat more delicious meals and wait for good weather to move higher up the mountain. That's it for now, we'll call you with more updates soon!" Dispatch #4: May 14 Team 2 has made it to Camp 2 at 11,000 feet. While it's still cold, the conditions are absolutely stellar. "The snow is rock hard," Dylan said, "it's like July melt freeze conditions up here. The cold weather has really made for easy travel." Dylan reported that the group was doing well and that everybody was smiles. He indecated that no one had messages for their families yet, but that they probably would soon. Mike, the assistant guide from New Zealand, has become quite popular for two reasons. First, everybody on the trip loves his Mexican cooking. He bragged to Dylan that, "he's probably the best Kiwi Mexican cook there is." And the second reason he's popular is his accent. All the ladies on the mountain are impressed. They keep telling him that if he's looking for an American wife, they could definitely help him out! Dispatch #5: May 16 AAI guide Dylan Taylor, leader of Denali Team 2, called by satellite phone tonight from 11, 000 feet with the following dispatch: "Hello everyone. This is Dylan calling for members of Team 2 to give you an update. We had a great day today. The weater was perfect, and we carried from Camp 2 here at 11,000' to 13,500' where we made a cache. We're back here for the night, and we hope to move up to Camp 3 at 14,000' tomorrow. Everyone is in good health. There is one case of tendonitis, but aside from that, everyone is feeling healthy, adjusting well to the altitude, and sporting a big appetite at every meal! So we're all doing fine and are really pleased about our steady progress. Tomorrow is going to be really busy, but we'll try to call again. Bye by now and a warm hello from each of us here to all of our family and friends at home." Dispatch #6: May 17 AAI guide Lauren Ditolla called at 11:03pm Saturday night, May 16th, with the following dispatch: "Hello everyone: I know we didn't call that long ago but we're letting you know that we're better than ever up here, not only because the weather continues to be great, but because my esteemed colleague and guide Mike Madden cooked us all a truly delicious dinner! We're also confirming our plan to move to 14,000' and Camp 3 tomorrow. We're looking forward to it. We're going to sleep like very happy campers tonight. So goodnight and we'll all you soon!" Dispatch #7: May 18 Lead Guide Dylan Taylor called early this morning, May 18, at 12:15am with the following dispatch: "Good morning boys and girls in the office and everyone else back home. This is Dylan from Denali Team 2 here at Camp 3. Mike Madden and I are in the tent all zipped up because the temperatures are a little cold now. It is about -5 F right now." "Today was Hannah Baker's 30th birthday so we cooked her up a special treat." This is the second birthday we have had mid-expedition on our Denali trips! "Lauren's husband, who is a climbing ranger on Denali, came by camp to say hello..." Unfortunately the connection began to break up and was lost before we recieved the end of the message Dispatch #8: May 18 Lead Guide Dylan Taylor called at 2:30pm with the following dispatch: "Hey everybody. We are currently at 14,000', Camp 3. We got here last night. We are planning on going down to 13,500' to get our cache and bring it back up to our camp at 14,000'. We slept in this morning, and had a nice, lazy pancake breakfast. Everyone seems to be doing well, with the exception of a few blisters. Before we leave to pick up the cache we'll have some lunch, can't go out on an empty stomach! Tomorrow we are planning to head up the fixed lines to make a cache at 16,200'" Dispatch #9: May 19 Lead Guide Dylan Taylor called at 11:40pm with the following dispatch: "Good evening boys and girls, this is Dylan Taylor calling in from 14,000 ft. We met up with Team 1 here at Camp 3, they are coming down from a summit attempt and it has been fun visiting with everyone. We climbed the fixed lines today and made a cache at 16,200'. It was windy and cold up the lines but the team did great. We dug a cache hole, filled it with our gear and food and then sat around for an hour and a half admiring the incredible view. There was a lot of high clouds and a bit of haze in the air but we still got a great view of the mountains. It does look like there may be some weather coming in though." "The descent of the fixed lines went smoothly. 14 camp has become a bit of a social scene now with a lot of parties coming in. It does look a bit like a wasteland though after the crazy windstorm from last week. Mike is still learning how to cook American food and will be whipping up some mashed potatoes and gravy tonight. We passed of O2 sat meter around and who ever got the lowest reading gets to do the dishes tonight...and the lucky winner was Ed! Well, tomorrow is going to be a rest day so we will call you when we get a chance." Dispatch #10: May 20 Lead Guide Dylan Taylor called at 3:30pm with the following dispatch: "This is Dylan calling in for a Team 3 dispatch. We are still at 14,000 ft and taking a rest day. Unfortunately Kerry is going down with Team 1, which is a bummer becuase she is so strong, but the blisters on her feet are too serious to continue up any higher. Tomorrow, if the weather remains good we will head on up the fixed lines and set up high camp. Today we are planning on heading over to "The Edge of the World". I've been there about 5 times but I still love it!" "On rest days my favorite thing to do is to read. Hannah just gave me the book 'A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush' to read and I'm very excited about that. The whole team is doing well and everyone has got great appetites and good energy." "Here is some interesting beta about the toilets at Camp 3. We've got two toilets in place right now. The one you can sit on is located right in the center of camp where everyone hangs out (I'm not really sure why). The squatter, my personal favorite, is a bit farther off and this year the hole is big enough to fall into! There have been many funny references to that famous scene in 'Slumdog Millionaire'." "Currently, Mike is shaving...he wants to smell good once we move to high camp. Lauren, the third guide, has it the best of all! She gets to stay with her husband at night, who is working for the ranger station up here, what a lucky girl!" Dispatch #11: May 22 Lead Guide Dylan Taylor called at 12:00pm with the following dispatch: "Hello everyone. We're still at 14,000 ft camp. We took a weather day yesterday and we were thinking about taking another weather day today, but I think we're going to go for High Camp. The weather has improved quite a bit, and it looks like we'll have a 6 or 7 hour window to head on up. It's been pretty windy here at 14,000 ft camp. We've been passing the time building snow walls, reading books, and eating quesadillas. Hannah has been showing off her artistic skills to entertain us. She's crafted some pretty awesome lion and lock ness monster sculptures. We don't have any specific messages for anyone at the moment. Val felt like he was coming down with a cold, but I think the day of rest really helped and he's feeling much better today. Tomorrow will most likely be an acclimatization day. The weather report doesn't look that great, so I think we're going to end up battling it out in our tents. Well, that's all for now. We'll call you all again tomorrow!" Dispatch #12: May 25 Lead Guide Dylan Taylor called today and yesterday with the following two dispatches: Dispatch from May 25: "Hey everyone, this is Dylan Taylor calling from 19,500 ft, on the Football Field just below the summit of Denali. I just made it to the top with Hannah, Ed, and Patrick! It was pretty amazing up there. Personally, it was my seventh time on the summit and I've got to say that it turned out to be one of the best yet. It was the calmest I have ever seen it on top, especially after such a windy start to the day. We had really strong winds, 40-50 mph, around Denali Pass which was almost knocking us over. We measured the windchill at -70 degrees. Folks pulled through though and avoided any cold related injuries and I'm very proud of everyone. Out of the three rope teams we had going for the summit, two had to turn back, leaving my rope team the only one that made the summit." "The rest of the team is waiting for us down at 17,000 ft. Ed would like to say hi to everyone back home, Patrick says that he sends his love to his girls, and Hannah also says hello. Alright, I'll talk to you all later" Dispatch from May 26: "Hey, this is Dylan again from Team 2. We are still at 17,000 ft and getting ready to pack up today to go down the mountain. As long as the weather is looking good we will try to make it to the airstrip by tomorrow. It's going to be a long push and we may get stopped by weather. If we don't make it to the airstrip/basecamp I'll give you an update. If we do, our next call will be back in Talkeetna!" Dispatch #13: May 28 We received word from K2, our Denali air support partner, that Team 2 arrived at the airstrip/base camp area mid-day yesterday. The team is currently stuck at basecamp due to weather. We will post more information as soon as we receive it. Dispatch #14: May 28 AAI Guide Dylan Talor called with the following dispatch: "Snow, so much snow! We're still stuck at base camp and are running out of all the good food. Pretty soon we're going to be stuck with freeze dried food. Morale is great. We've been passing the time playing cards, uno, connect four, reading books, listening to the radio, listening to music, meeting other wayward people. There are about 130 people stuck down here. So far the weather report doesn't look that great, we might be stuck here for another day or two. We'll call again tomorrow." Dispatch #15: May 29 AAI Guide Lauren Ditolla called with the following dispatch: "Half of Team 2 is back in Talkeetna, the rest of the team is still at base camp waiting for a plane. There was a small weather window this morning and it cleared up just enough to get a couple planes in. We have had terrible weather, which is It's this warm, wet snow that has been falling for days. As we were leaving the weather was starting to close in again and the rest of the team will probably be stuck there for another night. There are a lot of pilots on standby in case there's another weather window. Everyone who is still at base camp is doing well, just anxious to get back to town. I brought Patrick, Guy, Bob, and Val back with me. The rest of the team is with Mike and Dylan. We will call as soon as everyone gets in to Talkeetna. Talk to you soon!" p>Dispatch #16: June 1AAI Guide Dylan called with the following dispatch: "We all made it to Talkeetna last night! We're all happy to be back, and stayed up pretty late last night hanging out at the only bar in town, the Fairview. Everyone is safe and ready for a good night's sleep. We'll post some pictures soon! |