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Denali - West Buttress: May 23 - June 13, 2009 Guides: Aidan Loehr, Jeremy Ellison, Johnny Davison Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition: Dispatch #1: May 25 AAI guide Johnny Davison called today with the following dispatch: "Hello! We're calling from Camp 1 here up on Denali. We got on the mountain the day before yesterday. Yesterday we spent the day practicing skills at Base Camp. So far the weather has been decent. The winds picked up a bit today, but we've had clear skies. Everyone is really strong and doing very well. We made it down Heartbreak Hill without incident. We plan to make a cache at around 11,000 feet tomorrow but we'll see what the weather does. Well, that's all for now. We'll call again tomorrow with another update. Cheers!" Dispatch #2: May 29 AAI guide Aidan Loehr called today with the following dispatch: Aidan called in this morning from Camp 1 at 7,800 feet. There has been a full-on whiteout on Denali for the last couple of days. "We put a cache in at 10,200 feet at Kahiltna Pass in solid white-out conditions. It was a real test of our compass, altimeter, and GPS skills. We were literally flying on instruments as we climbed," Aidan said. This morning the team ate a goulash of hasbrowns and leftover Mexican food. While this doesn't sound terribly appetizing, Aidan made it clear that, "The team loves the goulash! Lots of calories make hungry climbers happy!" The weather has improved this morning, it is possible to see the summits of the minor peaks around camp. "We're going to get moving right now. This isn't supposed to hold for long. We want to get up to 11,200 feet before the weather comes back," Aidan said. Dispatch #3: June 1 AAI Guide Aidan Loehr called in the following dispatch: "Well, we finally got up a little higher today. We're not at 11,200 feet. The weather still isn't good. It's windy and white, but we're hoping to get up to 14,000 camp tomorrow. Bill went down with Dave, and they're both hanging out with Dylan down at basecamp. After taking Bill down, I came back up to 9600 feet, and broke down camp with the rest of the crew. It was a solid white out on the way up until about 10,200 feet. The clouds picked up briefly and we actually got to see something for a little bit. We woke up this morning and fortified camp. The winds are at about 35 miles per hour. Right now Johnny and I are going to do a back carry back down to our cache, and Jeremy is working on setting up the cook tent. People want to know how the Lakers are doing. I'll pass along that there's a game seven." Dispatch #4: June 4 Lead Guide Aidan Loehr called in today and gave us this dispatch: "Hey this is Aidan with Denali Team 4. We finally escaped the weather at 11,000 ft and moved up yesterday to 14 camp. We had some fantastic weather for the move. We noticed that a lot of teams from 14,000 ft had moved up to high camp, including Mike Roberts and Team 3 who we got to see briefly in camp. We will likely stay here for a few days to acclimitize. We'll do a back carry today and then tomorrow try to cache above the fixed lines." "We had goulash again...everyone really loves this stuff up here. Johnny wants to say hi to Lola and James is wondering about how the Lakers are doing in the NBA Playoffs. (We informed Aidan that the Lakers are playing the Magic in the Finals). We are in good position now, we've got a week and a half left and the weather looks like it could be changing for the better. Dispatch #5: June 5 AAI Guide Johnny Davison called in today and gave us the following dispatch: "Hey this is Johnny at 14 camp. We did a back carry yesterday so we are up here with all our gear. The weather is sunny and we are enjoying our rest day. It's pretty windy up high though. We are going to be doing some fixed line practice this afternoon so we are ready to climb the fixed lines tomorrow and make a cache above tomorrow. We've been building walls today out of snow blocks...lots of fun stuff on our rest day." "Aidan cooked up some nice quesadillas for lunch. We saw Chantel headed down with Carol and Ranjeet. Everyone is in good spirits and we are in a very good position on the mountain now. If the weather cooperates we have a good shot at the summit within the next week or so." Dispatch #6: June 6 Lead Guide Aidan Loehr called in today with a brief dispatch: "This is Aidan calling from 14,000 ft on a gorgeous day. We cached yesterday at 16,200 ft and then returned to our 14,000 ft camp for a rest day today. And today Michael and Angela and their crew (Team 3) are heading for the summit today." "We cached yesterday in fairly brisk winds - 40mph and gusting to 60mph. As I said, we're taking a rest day today and working with Mike to switch camps so that when they head down tomorrow, they can leave their tents for us to occupy, and we can leave out tents here for them to occupy. That will save a lot of weight in our loads and save a lot of time breakin gdown and then resetting camps. That should make our move to 17,000 ft pretty simple. A lot of people are moving up today, and it's pretty busy on the fixed lines going up the face of the buttress. So tomorrow the climb will be a lot nicer, a lot less crowded." "Getting to 17,200 ft on Monday should set us up for a summit climb into the sun, probably head to the great overlook called the Edge of the World, and maybe play some frisbee, maybe some hackysack. Should be good!" Dispatch #7: June 8 Lead Guide Aidan Loehr called in today with a brief dispatch: "Hey this is Aidan calling from 17,200, high camp on Denali. We had a good day today, got up reasonably early and got out of 14 camp at about 8:15am and arrived at high camp at about 3:30pm. We did a camp/tent swap with Mike Roberts from Team 3 and it worked out fantastic! We didn't have to carry heavy loads up to high camp or build up camp once we arrived. It allowed everyone to get some good rest this afternoon, which was really nice." "Coming up the ridge there was a little wind, probably around 30mph, it looked like the low pressure system everyone was talking about had moved in. This evening it actually looks like it may be clearing up. Looks like it may be nice tomorrow or Wednesday so we are shooting for the summit one of those two days. The skies are clearing with clouds down below, looks like it is going to be a great night up at high camp. James would like to throw out a good luck to the Lakers and he also wants to say that he loves his wife Heather as well." Dispatch #8: June 10 Lead Guide Aidan Loehr called in today with the following dispatch: "Hey this is Aidan with Team 4. All remaining team members summited late last night! Super exciting stuff!! We left from high camp at 11:00am yesterday and the weather was as good as it gets up here. The whole way up there was nothing but blue skies and a bit of wind. We made it to the top at 9:15pm. There was a white out the whole time we were on the summit but we still got great views on the summit ridge. We finally got back to high camp at about 1:30am. It was a long day and everyone is sleeping in." "Some good news for future teams, the weather patterns seem to be changing and it looks like the rest of June should be sunny, clear, and not so windy!. This afternoon we are planning on heading down to 14 camp. Kevin would like to send his best wishes to his daughter Megan and James says to tell his wife he loves her...and the Lakers too!" |