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Denali - West Buttress: June 1 - 21 Guides: Dylan Taylor, Mat Erpelding, Viren Perumal Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition: Dispatch #1: June 1 Guide Viren Perumal called with Team 5's first dispatch this morning: "I am calling from the K2 airstrip. It was looking like we were going to be pinned down in Talkeetna for another day, due to inclement weather, but luckily the clouds began to clear today. The skies opened up and hopefully we will be flying out onto the glacier today. We won't try to carry today because of the late start, but we are planning to just set up Base Camp. It is busy out here - the planes have been delayed for so long that there are about 120 people stacked up waiting for flights. We'll call again when we've made it on to the mountain." Dispatch #2: June 2 Lead guide Dylan Taylor called with an update on Team 5's progress: "I am calling from Camp 1 at 7,800' on the Kahiltna glacier. The whole team was able to fly out yesterday, Sunday, and we were all happy just to land on the glacier. Because of all the jet lag and travel that the team members had done recently, we decided to take it easy today. The weather is a comfortable cold, keeping everyone from getting overheated during the climbs." "Importantly, there is still a good snow cover on the mountain, which creates a very safe situation for crossing the glaciers. Right now, we are building up camp and the cook tent will be up in a few minutes. The forecast does say moderately bad weather is going to be moving in with some snow, but this might actually be nice for the team. The snow will be great to hike in because again, it will keep us cool as they move up the mountain." Dispatch #3: June 3 Dylan sent a quick dispatch for Team 5: "Today we left Camp 1 and cached up at 10,000 and the hike went very smoothly. It took us 5 hours to hike up, and just 1 hour to get down - I couldn't believe it! The weather is turning around and it is getting windier and snowing more. But if the clouds hold off enough, we will head up to Camp 2 tomorrow. So far, everyone is acclimatizing very well." Dispatch #4: June 5 We just received an update on Team 5's progress: "Our phone has water in it that is why you haven't heard from us. I am borrowing a satellite phone from another team, so I need to keep this dispatch brief." "We are currently at Camp 2, I am sitting here watching the clouds blow over windy corner. I haven't taken any pictures this entire trip because of the clouds. Weather has been moderate, but is a bit cold for June." "Everyone is strong and happy. Moral is high and people are psyched to go up the mountain. Tomorrow we plan on caching at 13,500. Tonight we are going to play a game of chess. We have been having long talks after dinner about how our group lacks hot sauce." Dispatch #5: June 6 We just received an update on Team 5's progress from Kurt, who was able to contact Dylan and the Team on the radio: "Our satellite phone is still not working, but we were able to get a message to Kurt. We cached at 13,000' today, and are now back at Camp 2. Tomorrow, we hope to move up to Camp 3. The group is doing just fine, and we're happy with the weather at the moment." Team 5's satellite phone is currently not working due to some water that got into the phone, but they will be receiving a phone shortly from Team 3 when they make their way back down the mountain tomorrow or Sunday. Dispatch #6: June 8 We heard from Dylan, who was able to fix the satellite phone: "The satellite phone is now working, and we got the goldfish out of it. Everyone did great moving from Camp 2 at 11,200' to Camp 3 at 14,000' yesterday. We made good time, completing the hike in only seven hours. The weather was great and actually hot at times. And Windy Corner, despite its namesake, was actually quite calm. Matt cooked up some delicious chicken pasta for dinner, which was a nice respite from the long day." "Today was a chill day, even though we did a back carry to 13,500'. When we returned to Camp 3, we had burritos for dinner. The weather is still pretty good, and actually is getting a little hot. The weather forecast for tomorrow calls for snow, so that will cool things down. The plan is to cache at 16,200 tomorrow which will keep us right on schedule." Dispatch #7: June 10 Mat just called with an update on Team 5: "We are looking good and feeling good! Most importantly, we are looking good (he laughs). Really though, we are being safe and having a good time. Right now, the weather is overcast and calm. There is no wind at Camp 3. If the weather holds we will move up to High Camp tomorrow. Today we walked out to the 'edge of the world' and took pictures. We are now back at camp and snacking on Denali Sandwiches and I am getting ready to play Dylan in a game of Chess. I don't want to break my winning streak, I have him 2-0. Dylan has read his entire book, 'Last of the Mohicans' including the back cover. I have only read two pages of my book. We'll let you know as soon as we reach High Camp." Dispatch #8: June 12 We spoke with Dylan today, who is resting up at High Camp with Team 5: "We are hanging out at High Camp right now. We got up here last night around 8:00pm, and the temperatures were really fluctuating. It was fairly windy too, but things have calmed down today. It is a bit foggy, and we can't see a whole lot. We are very interested in looking at the forecast tonight. If the weather looks promising, we will be headed to the Summit tomorrow, Friday. If not tomorrow, then Saturday!" Dispatch #9: June 13 We just heard from Dylan up at High Camp: "We are currently taking a rest day at High Camp. The weather is clear, and the we've been treated to breathtaking views of surrounding peaks. But despite this clear sky, there is a very cold north wind blowing in at about 40 mph. The group is still healthy and so if the weather holds out, we will head for the Summit tomorrow." "Cody and I had a serious push-up contest today. And I have to admit now to the world that Cody won, 30 to 22. Better luck nextime!" Dispatch #10: June 14 We picked up a message from Dylan at High Camp: "We took a weather day, and are still hanging out up at High Camp. We have been chilling in our tents for most of the day today. It was sunny and clear, but the wind was blowing at 60mph." "There haven't been any more push-up contests, just mostly hot drinks and soup. We have been enjoying some beautiful views. The weather forecast looks good, so hopefully we'll head for the Summit on Sunday!" Dispatch #11: June 16 Team 5 made it to the Summit! Here is a quick report from Dylan on their success: "We woke yesterday (Sunday) to the calmest and most pleasant morning yet on the expedition. The weather really did a 180 though, once we started for the summit. Our gorgeous day turned into a complete whiteout! We spent most of the climb in the clouds. At about 6:30pm, we reached the summit! This means the rountrip hike took about 13.5 hours." "Now, we are back at High Camp to sleep for a bit, and it is snowing moderately hard. We'll get some rest tonight, and then move to Camp 2. We hope to be back at the airstrip by Tuesday." Dispatch #12: June 17 After a successful summit, Dylan has called to report that the team has made it safely back to Base Camp: "Yesterday afternoon, Anne hurt her knee while descending the fixed lines. It turns out that her knee wasn't injured too badly. When they got down to 14,000 feet (Camp 3), they hung out for a few hours and ate dinner. The rangers recommended that we keep going in case Anne's knee began to swell or become difficult to use." "So at 10:00pm, we started to descend toward Base Camp. We pushed an all-nighter and and arrived at Base Camp this morning. We are currently waiting to be flown out and get back into Talkeetna. Although everyone is a bit like 'the walking dead,' it is understandable because we have been awake for nearly thirty hours and were moving for a large percentage of that time." "The weather is perfect at Base Camp, and so we are just patiently waiting - chillin' and sunbathing." Dispatch #12: June 27 Here are some photos from Team 5's successful summit on June 15, and other pictures. All photos were taken by lead guide and photographer, Dylan Taylor:
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