Denali - West Buttress: May 31 - June 20, 2009

Guides: Alasdair Turner, Richard Riquelme, Mary Harlan
Climbers: Juan Glenn, Vaibhav Saraiya, Pat Grandsaert, Tony O'Shea, Ray Aderholdt, David Chambers, Brian Roark, AC Sherpa

Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition:

Dispatch #1: May 31

AAI Guide Alasdair Turner called with the following dispatch:

"Hello, this is Team 5 calling in our first dispatch. Everyone is in great spirits even though it's driving rain. It doesn't look like we'll be flying out today. But it does look like we have a really strong team this year and I'm really excited about the group. Last night we all went out to dinner at Moose's Tooth for beers and pizza, which was great. We managed to put away an incredible amount of pizza. I think everyone ordered their own pizza and it was all gone by the end of dinner.

We only have a couple coffee drinkers on this trip so it looks like we'll have to buy a lot more hot chocolate. That's all for now, we'll call again tomorrow."

Dispatch #2: June 1

AAI Guide Alasdair Turner called with the following dispatch:

"This is Alasdair calling from the Kahiltna glacier. We flew in this morning, organized our gear in a fairly unorganized manner, and now we're moving along from base camp to Camp 1. I figure we'll get into camp in another 4 hours, around 7:30pm.

Everyone is doing great. I think we have a really strong team here. Megan, Eva, and Margaret get a big hello from their respective husbands. We'll try to call again later tonight when we get to camp."

Dispatch #3: June 2

AAI Guide Mary Harlan called with the following dispatch:

"Hi! This is Mary calling from Camp 1, or 7800 foot camp. Everything's going really well. I think we're all really sore. Yesterday was a pretty brutal day because we had to carry everything up here, and everything is really heavy. But, we all made it and everyone is in really good spirits.

Last night we had a burrito dinner. It was tasty. The weather is alright; we have some low clouds and it snowed last night, we could hear it falling throughout the night. We woke up to snow all over our tents.

Today we're going to move food and fuel up to about 10,000 feet, and then come back and spend the night here. Besides a few blisters, people are psyched to be here and the whole group is doing well.

Dispatch #4: June 2

We got the chance to speak with AAI Guide Richard today, who gave us this dispatch:

"Hola everybody! We had a long and well-deserved rest last night, and we are now preparing to move to Camp 2 today. Although there a few blisters, the whole team is still in great shape and looking forward to moving up the mountain. We hear it is cloudier up there, though it is nice and sunny here!

There are a few shoutouts from folks on the team - Juan says 'I love you' and 'I miss you' to Eva and 'hello' to all his friends in Mexico. Brian sends a big 'hello' to Megan as well! Tell everyone else we love them and we'll talk to you again soon."

Dispatch #5: June 3

Lead Guide Alasdair Turner called in today and gave us this dispatch:

"Hey everyone, this is Alasdair with Team 5. We just arrived at 11,200 ft and are now setting up camp. We've got a lot of hellos to send out to everyone back home. Ray says hi to the family. Mary says hi to mom and dad. Brian says hi to Elan. The two airforce boys say hi to their families. I of course would like to say hi to Susan and my doggies. AC Sherpa says hi to his wife and wants her to know that he misses her. Juan wants to say hello to his son in China and to Eva and the rest of his family."

"Anyway, our plan is to do a carry tomorrow. The weather is currently beautiful and we hope that it stays that way. That's all for now, talk to you again soon."

Dispatch #6: June 4

AAI Guide Mary Harlan called in today and gave us this dispatch:

"Hi, this is Mary calling from Camp 11,200 on Denali. We went and picked up our food cache from 9800 ft today. This group is moving incredible fast and efficiently and that is really exciting! Everyone seems to be in good spirits, eating well, and acclimatizing well...there aren't any mouths hanging open or eye drooping. Even us guides are doing fantastic! We are planning on staying here tonight and probably tomorrow night as well. There is a storm expected to come in later tonight which is supposed to bring high winds...so we'll see what happens with that.

"I really can't say this enough, everything is great up here. This is a fantastic group and we are having fun up here. Everyone says hi to loved ones. Richard and Alasdair both say hello to their wives. Juan says hi to his son and Eva, AC says hi to his wife and daughter. Brian says hi to mom and dad, Ray says hi to Margaret and finally I say hi to Jay.

Dispatch #7: June 5

Lead Guide Alasdair Turner called in today and gave us the following dispatch:

"Hey guys. We're currently taking a rest day at 11,000 ft camp. A few of us, Tony, Pat, Mary, Bryan and myself, took a hike up Motorcycle Hill today for a little acclimitization. The weather was pretty poor with low visibility and high winds but it was still nice to get out and hike. Richard even had hot drinks waiting for us when we returned. There was no chance of traveling around Windy Corner, which is perfect timing since today is our rest day anyway."

"We've got pesto pasta on the menu for dinner tonight so I am very excited for that. Everybody is in really good spirits and getting along nicely. We saw Chantel, a guide for Team 3, coming down with two climbers, Carol and Ranjeet. When she pulled in her and Mary chatted it up for about three and a half hours before finally falling asleep in the guide tent. Carol and Ranjeet took advantage of our cook tent and slept in there. They left this morning so they should be getting to the airstrip sometime today. Well, that's it for now."

Dispatch #8: June 6

AAI Guide Richard Riquelme called in today with a brief dispatch:

"Hey hey hey this is Ricardo AKA Richard saying 'Hello' from 11,200 camp. We did a carry to 13,000 ft around Windy Corner, and yes it really lived up to its name. It was pretty windy and kind of cold. Tomorrow we will head to 14,000 ft and set up camp there, and the day after, we'll drop down and retrieve the cache and bring all those supplies up to 14,000 ft."

"We did climb to 12,000 ft yesterday. A couple of people punched through into crevasses up to their waist, but everyone was doing a great job with the glacier travel procedures and it was easy to get them out. These were really invisible crevasses, so everyone really saw the point of our strict glacier travel procedures! Weather right now has improved. We have blue skies, temperatures are colling, and hopefully it will continue like this."

-- At that point, the reception from the satellite phone broke and we lost the connection.

Dispatch #9: June 7

Lead Guide Alasdair Turner called in today with a brief dispatch:

"Hey guys, it's Alasdair from Team 5. We are at 14 camp now and it looks like a bit of weather might be coming in today. We are going to get a cache at Windy Corner today in case we need to stay here for a while. The group couldn't be doing any better! We are going to take a rest day tomorrow. Juan says to tell his family that he loves them!"

Dispatch #10: June 10

Lead Guide Alasdair Turner called in today with the following dispatch:

"Hey this is Alasdair with Team 5. We are heading up to high camp today. We're going to switch camps with Aidan and Team 4 since they summited last night and are on their way down to 14 camp. Yesterday we went on an acclimatization hike up the fixed lines. Mary was able to catch up with the team yesterday so it is nice to have her around again. Everybody seems to be doing good and are all pretty excited to be going for the summit soon! People are doing well with the altitude, the acclimatization hike definitely helped out."

"It seems like there is a bit of a weather inversion occuring up here with a big dark band of cloud up high. We're thinking that this will pass quickly so we are going to go for it. We only need a couple days at high camp to make the summit..."

-At this point the satellite phone lost reception and the call was lost.

Dispatch #11: June 11

AAI Guide Mary Harlan called in the office today at with the following dispatch:

"Hey this is Mary calling in with Team 5. I've got great news, we made is up to high camp yesterday. Everybody is great and moving strong. We got in really late last night so we slept in until about 11 this morning and are just starting to make breakfast. We are planning to try for the summit tomorrow if the weather is ok. We have lots of food and fuel so if it doesn't look good we can spend some more time at high camp with a 'wait and see' attitude."

"I've got some messages to send out from the team. Juan wants to say hi to Eva and his kinds. AC says hello to his wife and daughter. Team Air Force says hello to the Air Force Academy crew. Richard says hi to his wife and to Sammy. Alasdair says hi to his dogs, he had a dream about them last night. And finally I want to say hi to Mom, Dad, and Jay."

Dispatch #12: June 12

AAI Guide Alasdair Turner called in today at with the following dispatch:

"We're stuck at 17,000 camp. It's not windy and it's not cold, it's just snowing. Snowing so hard we can't see a thing. We have an extra two days of food so we're doing well in that department. Right now we're trying to entertain ourselves, listening to NPR, playing gin rummy, etc. Some people are trying to get some rest, like [AAI Guide] Richard. Everyone is doing well. Yesterday was a pretty rough day in terms of altitude headaches, but everyone is doing surprisingly well today. Almost no altitude-related aches at all.

So, things are good. We just can't think of a better place to be hanging out right now [lots of laughter in the background]. We'll call again tomorrow."

Dispatch #13: June 14

AAI Guides Richard Riquelme and Mary Harlan called in today at with the following dispatch:

"We summited Denali yesterday (June 13) in a thirteen hour climb! We had really good weather all the way to the summit and then as we started to descend the winds picked up and clouds started forming up below and then around us. Luckily, we were able to make it back to camp at 17,200 ft in reasonable conditions. We really had perfect timing for the climb since the weather didn't move in until after we had already summited and were on our way down."

"As long as conditions are halfway decent we will soon descend to 14,000 ft camp and probably continue on down to 11,000 ft. We will try to move pretty rapidly down the mountain to the airstrip. Everyone is feeling good and is really happy."

This fifth AAI Denali Expedition is the fourth to summit this season. Team 1 missed by 700 ft when high winds forced them back.

Dispatch #14: June 16

Lead Guide Alasdair Turner called in today at with the following dispatch:

"Hey guys, this is Alasdair calling in with the final dispatch from Team 5. Everybody is back in Talkeetna, we just finished eating breakfast at the Roadhouse together. Everyone is very happy...understandably so. We did a bit of a death march to the airstrip yesterday to try and make the final 9pm flight off the glacier. We missed the flight and had to stay on the glacier one more night. We had a good dinner (with a beer!), and then it was so mild we slept outside on the glacier without any tents. Then we caught the plane off the glacier this morning. Juan wants to say hello to his family. Well, we've got a lot of celebrating to do so I'll talk to all of you later."