Denali - West Buttress: June 7 - June 27, 2009

Guides: Forest McBrian, Kurt Hicks, Lee Lazarra
Climbers: Julian Gamble, Bill Lyden, Geoff Strommer, Richard Wagner, Thomas Laussermair, Jim Lederer, Erin Lederer, Marc Wilkins, James Nettleton

Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition:

Dispatch #1: June 9

Lead Guide Forest McBrian called in today with a brief dispatch:

"Hello everybody, this is Forest calling with Team 6 at Camp 1 on Denali. Sorry for not calling earlier but we just got a phone last night from Team 3 and finally got it charged today. We just finished caching today at 10,000 ft. Everyone is in good spirits and we just had a great dinner of pasta primavera. We're off to bed now and everyone is looking forward to moving to Camp 2 tomorrow in beautiful weather. It is supposed to be very nice for the next few days so we are all excited!"

Dispatch #2: June 10

AAI Guide Kurt Hicks called in at 10:30pm with the following dispatch:

"This is Kurt calling in with Team 6 here at 11,000 ft, or Camp 2, on Denali. We arrived this afternoon after a beautiful day traveling on the upper Kahiltna. We had really favorable conditions with a light breeze most of the day. Everyone performed really great and are all doing fantastic. We have a couple of shoutouts from Erin - 'I love you J-Bear' and 'I love you Momma Rooster'."

"Tomorrow the plan is to pick up the cache we left around 10,000 ft and then we will be fully established here at Camp 2. Then hopefully the weather will hold and we can continue to move up the mountain. All is well, we are doing excellent, and best wishes to everyone back home!"

Dispatch #3: June 11

AAI Guide Kurt Hicks called in the office today at with the following dispatch:

"Hey guys it's Kurt calling in from Camp 2 at 11,000 ft. We just finished a backcarry in beautiful weather. We had great conditions and everybody is really strong. We were able to go to 10,200 ft and back in under three hours! Everybody's just sitting around and enjoying the weather now."

"We had a massive, greasy lunch which satified everyone's hunger. We had cheesy hashbrowns...everybody is loving the calories! Aidan's team passed us on their way down and they might even fly off late today. Our plan for tomorrow is to go around Windy Corner and caching at 13,500' tomorrow."

Dispatch #4: June 13

Lead Guide Forest McBrian called in today at with the following dispatch:

"Greetings from 11,000 ft on Denali. We're having a grand old time here. Today, after a delicious breakfast of sausage and eggs that Lee cooked up, we carried a load of gear and supplies up the mountain and around Windy Corner and made a cache a little below 14,000 ft. We were in the sun all day and it was quite warm. We really enjoyed the great views, especially of the Father and Sons Wall above the Peters Glacier."

"Tomorrow we'll probably move to Camp 3 at 14,000 ft. Hopefully the weather keeps going like this! We'll try to call again Saturday night or Sunday and let you know what we have accomplished."

Dispatch #5: June 15

AAI Guide Kurt Hicks called in today at with the following dispatch:

"Hey this is Kurt calling in with Team 6. We are now at 14,000 ft camp. Yesterday we retrieved our cache from 13,600 ft and made excellent time. It only took us about 2.5 hours. Once back in camp we did some fixed line practice and then afterwards we enjoyed a delicious dinner of burritos with some cheesecake for dessert! Needless to say everybody went to bed full and happy."

"We are taking a rest day today and enjoying this beautiful weather. The plan is to lay around, read books, acclimitize and take in the incredible views of Mt. Foraker and Hunter in the distance. Tomorrow the plan is to climb the fixed lines and put in a cache at 16,000 ft. Then we'll see how the weather looks and possibly move up to high camp within the next few days."

"We saw Alasdair, Richard and Mary from Team 5 descending after a successful summit bid. Everyone had big smiles as they came into camp. They are currently breaking down their camp and packing everything up to try and make it down to the airstrip tonight."

"We do have some shout-outs from our team. Erin says that she misses her sunshine. James says that Nettles misses everybody and hopes to see them soon. Mark would also like to send his best to friends and family. Well, that's all for now, I'm going to get back to working on my Denali suntan!"

Dispatch #6: June 17

AAI Guide Kurt Hicks called in today at with the following dispatch:

"Hey guys, I've got a couple days worth of dispatches to report. Yesterday we cached at 16,000 ft on the top of the fixed lines. It was 20 below when we woke up, the weather was crystal clear. We left a 7 am and returned at 1:30 pm to find it about 80 degrees in our tents! Quite the temperature fluctuation. The group performed really really well on the fixed lines, I was very impressed. Once we returned we enjoyed a delicious meal of Thai noodles and then hunkered down early in the evening, avoiding the few inches of snow the fell."

"Today it is slightly overcast but fairly warm. We are taking a rest day today and will likely head out to the 'Edge of the World' for some sightseeing. We hope to move up to high camp tomorrow, weather permitting of course, and then make a summit attempt within the next few days. Well, I've got to go eat some breakfast, we're having sausage and gravy served on top of bagels...I can't wait! I'll talk to all of you again soon."

Dispatch #7: June 18

Lead Guide Forest McBrian called from Team #6 today at 3:30pm Alaska time with the following report:

"Well I have to say that it's like Christmas up here. It's snowing fairly heavily. We've gotten three feet in just the last two days. We've had a bunch of digging out to do, but we've also been doing some inspired construction. Tomorrow, or possibly the next day, depending on the speed of the crew we expect to christen a new cooking shelter. Built into the glacier with seats and shelves for the stoves and for some supplies and with a floorless tent overhead, it will be a new and improved architecture, with many modern and luxurious amenities."

"Our guide Lee has been feeling poorly and will most likely go down tonight with fellow guide Kurt. Aidan Loehr, who lead Team #4 to the summit on June 9th, will be flying into base camp tonight. Tomorrow night he and Kurt will climb all the way back up to 14,000 feet where we are."

"There's been a very high quality game of trivial pursuit going on between the tents at night. People invent the trivia questions, and they are pretty clever. It's turned into a pretty intense competition, both to invent questions and to come up with the answers."

"Jeff, whose birthday was several days ago, says that he wants his daughter Christina to know that she game him the best birthday present ever!"

"There are lots of other teams here laying low in the snowy weather. Lots of snow plus a white out keeps people pretty still."

"Being a team of action, however, we are making our second Thanksgiving Dinner tonight. We'll be having turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, stuffing, and cranberry sauce!! Our kitchen and chefs are much envied on the mountain."

"That's all the news for now. We will keep you posted when things start happening."

Dispatch #8: June 22

Lead Guide Forest McBrian called from Team #6 today at 3:35pm Alaska time with the following report:

"Hello again. We're still pinned down at 14. The weather is still pretty bad, but we're looking at a move tomorrow or Wednesday to 17,200 feet. It looks like we'll have a weather window then.

The Lederer's are probably going to descend tonight or tomorrow because they are ona very tight schedule and can't take a chance on getting off the mountain late. Kurt and I will lead the others up as soon as the conditions are good.

Had an earthquake this morning during breakfast. There we were, innocently eating our scones and coffee when everything started to sway. The ground was getting away from us. We ran outside to see if anything was falling off the walls in the distance, but we didn't see much. It was a pretty strong quake. Definitely called for a second cup of coffee.

OK, we'll call again when there's more news.

Dispatch #9: June 23

AAI Lead Guide, Forest, called at 1:03 Alaska time with the following update:

"The weather today is very poor. There are a couple of teams up at 17,200 feet. and they reported that winds are really high and are destroying snow walls. Tomorrow looks iffy too - we're still in the middle of a low pressure system - so probably the earliest we could move up is Thursday. The forecast is for a little weather window to appear, but it's hard to know when that will be. Friday and Saturday look pretty good, but that's getting late in the schedule for a lot of people.

Though we're a little tired of being stuck here, we're glad we are waiting here and not at 17,200 feet. And everyone is doing fine. This morning we had blueberry and walnut pancakes, and they were very well received. The coffee continues to set the high standard on the mountain. We are using Kaladi Brothers coffee in a fairly dark roast. It's a blend, but part mocha java. Made with our big French press, there is no equal on this mountain.

After breakfast, Kurt along with Jim and Erin Lederer headed down. Jim and Erin have a tight schedule, and they should be able to fly out tomorrow if the weather cooperates.

The quote of the day is from Bill Lyden, who reflecting on his life said, "I should get out more." We all reminded him that he has been out in a big time way for the last three weeks. We have to conclude that, despite the big waiting game here, being out in nature REALLY agrees with Bill!

We'll call you with more news when there is some. Every one is fine and all teams members want to send a warm "Helllllooooooo" back home. Talk to you soon."

Dispatch #11: June 25

AAI Lead Guide, Forest McBrian, called in today with the following update:

"This is Forest with Team 6. We are planning on moving up to 17,200 feet today. We have been stuck at 14,000 feet for about 12 days. The weather is clear and not windy so we'll make a go for it. Everybody is busy packing and very excited to finally be moving..."

The satellite phone call was lost before we could get any more details.

Dispatch #12: June 26

Lead Guide, Forest McBrian, called in today with the following update for Team 6:

"Hello, this is Forest calling in from 17,000 ft. We made the move from 14 camp today in lovely weather, moving up the narrow West Buttress ridge to high camp. We are all eating, drinking and resting up for a potential summit bid. We're hoping that the forecast for tomorrow improves so that Bill, Julian, Mark, James and I can make an attempt for the summit. Bill would like to send his love to Steph and Mark sends his love to his family. We are having a good time up here, I hope that it's lovely weather down in Bellingham."

"Oh yea, on another note. The guys managed to sneak a big rock in by backpack this morning, which had me quite confused for a while. They almost got away with it and managed to catch the whole ordeal on tape...apparently it's funny...to them anyway (uproarious laughter in the background)!"

Dispatch #13: June 28

Lead Guide, Forest McBrian, called in today with the following update for Team 6:

"This is Forest from 17,200 ft on Denali. Sorry I didn't call in yesterday, but it was a very busy day! James, Bill, Jullian, Marc, and I summited last night at 9:00pm. We had a really nice sunny day. Everyone was quite strong and made it happen. They worked together so well. There were only four other people climbing the mountain, so we really felt like we had it to ourselves. That's quite rare up here."

"We're back at 17,200 feet eating and drinking, and soon we will leave for 14,000 feet. I'll call again when we are further down the mountain, perhaps tomorrow."

"Everyone says hello to friends and family back home. The whole team is feeling great and is very pleased with what we have accomplished. It was a long trip that took a lot of patience and persistence and it really paid off."

"As we mentioned before, we are planning to pass our satellite phone on to the last expedition because theirs isn't working. So we should have some news from them on their progress before too long. Talk to you soon."

Dispatch #14: June 29

Lead Guide, Forest McBrian, called in today with the following update for Team 6:

"Hey guys, I just wanted to let you know that we are off the glacier and in Talkeetna! Everybody made a strong pull through the night. And now it's shower time and celebration time! Everybody is looking forward to a great dinner at the West Rib or Fairview!"