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Dear Climber,
I hope you are enjoying a great summer season. The calendar
may say we're moving towards the end of summer, but conditions in the mountains of the western U.S. remain
excellent. Cascade snow and ice routes are still in prime condition, and we're climbing classic rock routes
in the high Sierra every day. It's far from too late to do late season climbs or courses in these ranges.
Great Red Rock news: Thanks to some new, fully shaded,
multi-pitch routes, we'll begin our season in RR a little early this autumn. These new routes are not known
by many people and haven't been climbed much at all, but they're very high quality 7 to 10-pitch lines
(four at 5.7, one at 5.8, and one at 5.9). Perfect for pushing your multi-pitch skills.
It's also time to start planning for Aconcagua, Ecuador, and Patagonia.
Trips are as short as ten days, and even a brief winter break can land you in a spectacular setting.
In Patagonia we'll be trekking and climbing from November through February around Fitzroy and Cerro Torre as well as
out on the Patagonian Ice Cap. I hope you will join us!
Wishing you frequent climbing,
Dunham Gooding, Director
What's Inside:
- Feature Article:
First Ascents in the St. Elias Range: Story and photos by Ben Traxler
- Program Highlights:
A new season brings the excitement of new locations for expeditions, cragging, and instructional programs
- Institute News:
2008 Denali season celebrates 100% success -
Multiple summits in South America -
AAI guide Dawn Glanc returns from 'Big Expedition'
- AAI Insider:
Expert Tips:
New articles written by guide Jason Martin
Guides Choice:
A winner for all seasons
Photo Contest:
Vote today for your summer favorite!
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Feature Article:
First Ascents in the St. Elias Range
AAI guide Ben Traxler and three climbers explore the alpine climbing of the St. Elias Range,
west of the Yukon Territory, and make first ascents of two peaks. The trip was part of the American Alpine Institute
Alaska First Ascents and Alpine Mountaineering program, which has been a tradition for 20 years
in this vast range in eastern Alaska.
To read the full article detailing the expedition, follow this
link.
For more information on AAI's St. Elias Expedition in 2009, follow this
link.
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Program Highlights:
- Red Rock
Red Rock season opens mid-September! Make a reservation now to enjoy the mild fall temperatures and climb in this beautiful canyon area.
Red Rock offers climbing for all skill levels and is a great place to visit when the weather turns chilly in your hometown.
- Ecuador High Altitude Expedition
Sign up now, because availibility is limited for the high altitude expeditions in the Ecuadorian Andes! This program includes two acclimatization
hikes in the Quito region, and then progresses to climbing either Cayambe and Cotopaxi or Illiniza Sur and Cayambe,
followed by a 5-day option to climb Chimborazo - Ecuador's highest peak.
10 and 15-day programs run from November through February.
- Aconcagua
We invite you to climb one of the Seven Summits on this 23-day ascent in the Andes. This expedition
offers an extremely varied experience, beginning in Mendoza in the heart of Argentina's wine country and
ending with expansive views of the remote central Andes of Chile and Argentina. It is non-technical
and a great high altitude expeditionary experience.
- California Sierra and
Washington Cascades
It's not over yet! Late summer sun and warmth continue throughout many courses in the Sierra and Washington Cascades.
It is a beautiful time of year for a Whitney ascent, or to try your tools out on an Alpine Ice course. We will be running courses in these areas
scheduled through September and by arrangement into October.
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Institute News:
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Want current news? Check out our BLOG!
Visit the blog daily for climbing conditions in many areas, breaking news in climbing and climbing politics, guide interviews,
info on new routes, and all things climbing. |
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All Eight Denali Teams Summit in the 2008 Season
All eight of AAI's Denali expeditions summited the 20,320-foot
peak this season!
To read more on AAI's Denali expedition, click here. |
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Many Summits Celebrated in South America
The summer season has been a very successful one for the Institute. In June and July, AAI guides lead several teams to the
summits of Pyramid Blanca, Huayna Potosi, Pequeno Alpamayo, Pisco, Chopicalqui and Ishinca in
Bolivia and Peru. Coming up next are high
altitude summits in Ecuador! |
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AAI Guide Dawn Glanc Returns from 'Big Expedition'
Dawn was chosen to be one of the select four climbers to go on the
'Big Expedition for Cancer Research,'
an expedition aimed at attempting the summit of an unclimbed mountain, Peak 8920 in Alaska. Follow this link for more information on their
adventure. |
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AAI joins the Seattle Adventure Travel Expo
The leading active and adventure travel event is coming to Seattle, and AAI is proud to be a part of this fun weekend.
Featured speakers include Rick Steves, Arthur Frommer, and Philippe Cousteau. For free tickets to the
Adventure Travel Expo,
please contact AAI. |
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Expert Tips
New Expert Tips: Rock Shoes and Climbing Styles
by Jason Martin, AAI Program Coordinator and Guide
Two new Experts Tips articles by AAI Guide and Program Coordinator Jason Martin have been published on AAI's website. Jason writes daily articles
for the AAI Blog, all of which are informative for both new and experienced climbers.
His first article, 'Rock Shoes: Board-Lasted vs. Slip-Lasted,'
describes the construction of rock shoes and how to choose a type that is right for you.
The second article, 'Climbing Styles: What do the different terms mean?,'
is an overview of the many types of climbing. 18 more Expert Tip articles
are linked.
Guide's Choice:
Guides Choice Winners - 2008 Summer Selection
The Guides Choice Award
is given to items of equipment and clothing that have proven to be of the highest quality in their product category on the
basis of excellence in design, performance, and durability.
The
2008 Guides Choice Awards
were just announced at the Outdoor Retailer trade show last week in Salt Lake City.
Among our favorite recipients is the Buff:
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The Buff
An incredibly functional piece of headwear, the Buff is ideal for fending off chills at the belay or keeping the sun off you
while on the glacier. Lightweight and wicking Coolmax fabric breathes and wicks away moisture unlike any other hat on the market.
We've found that not only is it a durable and stylish option, it can also function as a beanie, headband, neck gaiter, balaclava, or
any other combination you desire, meaning you have to carry less clothing and still be covered. Most all of us at AAI own
a couple of Buffs and never leave on a climbing trip without one of them. |
For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice website. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment that is on sale changes every Tuesday, so check back each week.
Photo Contest
→ August 2008 Photo Contest: Vote for your favorite!
The photos are in, and now it's time for you to decide which finalists deserve to be winners.
→ Winner of May 2008 Photo Contest (click to see 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place winners):
Congratulations to Dow Williams of Ivins, Utah, for winning first place in our May Photo Contest!
Here is Dow's winning photo:
"The Middle Line on Expert's Choice in Waterton Lakes National Park"
→ Enter the August 2008 Photo Contest!
Send your best mountain photo to climberspath@aai.cc and have a chance at winning some great prizes!
Please include your full name, address, and a caption for the photo.
AAI is the longest continuously ACCREDITED AMGA GUIDE SERVICE in the United States
Founded in 1975, the American Alpine Institute is dedicated to helping beginning and experienced
climbers improve their skills and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world while protecting the natural environment. We offer AMGA accredited instructional courses,
guided trips, and expeditions throughout the year in 6 states and 16 countries.
American Alpine Institute
1515 12th Street
Bellingham, Washington 98225
Read past issues of AAI's E-newsletter.
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