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Trip Reports from South America:

Expeditions in Bolivia and Peru


Descending the glacier on Pyramide Blanca. Andrew Wexler


Bolivia: AAI successfully ran two Bolivia trips this year, and a third trip begins in a few days. The first two teams were composed of the following climbers:

Team One:

  • Peter Wiesenekker of Jabriu, Australia
  • Johann Melillo of Oakland, California
  • Timothy Jung of Minneapolis, Minnesota
  • Michael Hennon of Bellingham, Washington

Team Two:

  • Jim Swauger of Clemmons, North Carolina
  • Caitlin Swauger of Clemmons, North Carolina
  • Kelly Swauger of Clemmons, North Carolina
  • Jim Lederer of Advance, North Carolina
  • Erin Lederer of Advance, North Carolina


The Swauger and Lederer families at the Plaza de Armas
in La Paz. Andrew Wexler

      Both teams completed a tour of La Paz, which brought them to some exotic city locations. Team members visited the Witches Market, where one has the opportunity to buy a llama fetus to bury beneath a house for good luck and potions and powders "for anything that ails you." They visited the Coca Museum, where it's possible to learn about the strange history of the coca plant, its economic effect on the Bolivian people, and its use as a chew to dull the appetite and ease headaches. And lastly, both groups were provided an opportunity to taste the local cuisine at an interesting variety of restaurants in La Paz whenever the teams were in town between trekking and climbing objectives.

      Following a trek of the Takesi Trail (and despite what was at times difficult weather), every member of Team One summited both Pyramide Blanca and Pequeno Alpamayo. Later in the trip Tim and Johann continued on to successfully summit Huayna Potosi. Peter and Johann elected to join the five-day extension to climb 21,201-foot Nevado Illimani. Johann summited in a remarkable five hours from high camp (Nido de Condores) and Peter made it within 900 feet of the summit before turning back.

      Team Two was a private 15-day program with two families that first trekked the Takesi Trail and then climbed in the southern part of the Cordillera Real. They had complete success on Pyramide Blanca, and then Erin and Jim then went on to successfully summit Huayna Potosi. Views from the top of this stunning mountain are absolutely fabulous. It's possible to see scores of minor peaks and a number of major ones from the summit including Tikimani, Illimani, Mururata, Condoriri, Ancohuma and Illampu.

      Both of AAI's Bolivia teams had very successful trips. Everybody had a cultural experience in an exciting and very traditional South American country, and everyone attained beautiful summits and great views.


Huayna Potosi. Andrew Wexler


Peru: Our first Peru team met in Huaraz, Peru, on June 30th. The team was comprised of the following climbers:

  • Mac Heller of Greenwich, Connecticut
  • Steven Heller of Greenwich, Connecticut
  • Anoop Reddy of Tampa, Florida
  • Wally Chambers of Manti, Utah
  • Peter Weisenekker of Jabriu, Australia
  • Rafael Ramirez of Chicago, Illinois

      All six climbers joined us for a fourteen-day trip to acclimatize and then climb Nevado Pisco and Nevado Chopicalqui, and Wally, Peter, and Rafael continued on for two more peaks on an eight-day extension. The base for their climbs in the Cordillera Blanca was Huaraz, and located as it is in a valley over 10,000 feet, acclimatization began upon arrival. The team did a few acclimatization hikes, including a scenic hike to Churup Lake and an ascent up to the glacier on Vallunaraju, a beautiful 18,000 foot peak. Once everybody felt well acclimated, the team did some skills practice and then went on to climb Pisco (18,872'). The team's success on the mountain was quite good, with the majority making it to the summit.

      Chopicalqui presented far more difficulties than the preceding summit. To attain high camp, the team was required to work through some complex and challenging terrain on the glacier. After crossing a number of snow bridges and ascending a few sections of steep ice, the climbers put in a camp at over 18,000 feet. The following day they found fantastic conditions and climbed to the 20,847-foot summit.

      Following Chopicalqui, the team took a well-deserved rest day in Huaraz before continuing on to the Ishinca Valley to climb Ishinca and Tocllaraju. The approach to the valley requires a long trek through open fields to base of the mountains. Burros assisted on the trek making the approach hike an enjoyable jaunt through the Peruvian outback.

      After arriving in the valley, the team climbed Ishinca, a pretty little mountain with a pretty little glacier that requires pretty big lungs. The peak towers 18,143 feet above sea level.

      As they climbed Ishinca, the team got better and better views of Toqullaraju and Ranrapalca. The route wanders up through some interesting seracs and up a series of short ice cliffs. It finishes on a 40+ degree slope for a little under two pitches that climbs up to a tight little summit ridge. A short traverse on the summit ridge took the climbers right to the 18,143-foot summit.

      Following Ishinca, the team geared up for Tocllaraju, an absolute jewel of the Andes and the premier peak of the Ishinca Valley. The standard route requires about three pitches of steep snow and ice climbing as well as some exciting glacier travel. The final stretch of climbing is up a 65-degree face that leads directly to the summit, which the team reached at eight in the morning. From there they were treated to phenomenal views of the entire Cordillera Blanca.

      AAI's Peru team had a very successful trip. To celebrate they participated in a South American feast known as a pachimanca. A pachimanca is a meal prepared using a traditional South American cooking technique. A lamb is slaughtered, seasoned and then buried in a hole lined with hot rocks. The result is an excellent meal to top off an excellent trip.

The Second Cordillera Blanca trip of the season ran from July 26th to August 14th and succeeded on all four of its summit goals. Team members were:

  • Hans Otto Meyer of Bloomington, Indiana
  • Barbara Von Przewoski of Bloomington, Indiana
  • Jeffrey Love of Toronto, Ontario

      To acclimatize the team trekked from Willcahuain to Monterey, to Churup Lake, and to the Moraine camp at Valluna Raju (16,240'/4950m) before moving to base camp in the Ishinca Valley (14,272'/4350m). Their ascent of Nevado Urus Este (17,783'/542m) was successful, and everyone reached to top in clear weather. After a rest day they then climbed Ishinca. After another rest day, they moved to a high camp on Toqllaraju and then summited the following morning in foggy conditions.

      The team returned to Huaraz for to refresh themselves in town before heading out to the Llanganuco Valley and the short hike to the Chopicalqui Base Camp. From there they moved to high camp at 16,405 feet (5000m). In the morning they awoke to clear but very windy conditions. They were able to summit, and on their way down, clouds engulfed base camp. The return to town went smoothly and the team finished off their trip with a delicious dinner at the home of the family providing the infrastructure for our Peruvian program.


This article is from the August 2008 issue of AAI's Enewsletter.



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