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Huayna Potosi. Andrew Wexler
Peru:
Our first Peru team met in Huaraz, Peru, on June 30th. The team was comprised of the following climbers:
- Mac Heller of Greenwich, Connecticut
- Steven Heller of Greenwich, Connecticut
- Anoop Reddy of Tampa, Florida
- Wally Chambers of Manti, Utah
- Peter Weisenekker of Jabriu, Australia
- Rafael Ramirez of Chicago, Illinois
      All six climbers joined us for a fourteen-day trip to acclimatize
and then climb Nevado Pisco and Nevado Chopicalqui, and Wally, Peter, and Rafael
continued on for two more peaks on an eight-day extension. The base for their climbs
in the Cordillera Blanca was Huaraz, and located as it is in a valley over 10,000 feet,
acclimatization began upon arrival. The team did a few acclimatization hikes,
including a scenic hike to Churup Lake and an ascent up
to the glacier on Vallunaraju, a beautiful 18,000 foot peak. Once everybody felt well acclimated,
the team did some skills practice and then went on to climb Pisco (18,872'). The team's success on the mountain
was quite good, with the majority making it to the summit.
      Chopicalqui presented far more difficulties than the preceding
summit. To attain high camp, the team was required to work through some complex and challenging terrain on the
glacier. After crossing a number of snow bridges and ascending a few sections of steep ice,
the climbers put in a camp at over 18,000 feet. The following day they found fantastic conditions
and climbed to the 20,847-foot summit.
      Following Chopicalqui, the team took a well-deserved rest day in Huaraz
before continuing on to the Ishinca Valley to climb Ishinca and Tocllaraju. The approach to
the valley requires a long trek through open fields to base of the mountains.
Burros assisted on the trek making the approach hike an enjoyable jaunt through the Peruvian outback.
      After arriving in the valley, the team climbed Ishinca,
a pretty little mountain with a pretty little glacier that requires pretty big lungs.
The peak towers 18,143 feet above sea level.
      As they climbed Ishinca, the team got better and better views of Toqullaraju
and Ranrapalca. The route wanders up through some interesting seracs and up a series of short ice cliffs.
It finishes on a 40+ degree slope for a little under two pitches that climbs up to a tight little summit ridge.
A short traverse on the summit ridge took the climbers right to the 18,143-foot summit.
      Following Ishinca, the team geared up for Tocllaraju,
an absolute jewel of the Andes and the premier peak of the Ishinca Valley.
The standard route requires about three pitches of steep snow and ice climbing as
well as some exciting glacier travel. The final stretch of climbing is up a 65-degree face that leads directly to the
summit, which the team reached at eight in the morning. From there they were treated to
phenomenal views of the entire Cordillera Blanca.
      AAI's Peru team had a very successful trip.
To celebrate they participated in a South American feast known as a pachimanca. A pachimanca
is a meal prepared using a traditional South American cooking technique. A lamb is slaughtered,
seasoned and then buried in a hole lined with hot rocks. The result is an excellent meal to
top off an excellent trip.
The Second Cordillera Blanca trip of the season ran from July 26th to
August 14th and succeeded on all four of its summit goals. Team members were:
- Hans Otto Meyer of Bloomington, Indiana
- Barbara Von Przewoski of Bloomington, Indiana
- Jeffrey Love of Toronto, Ontario
      To acclimatize the team trekked from Willcahuain to Monterey,
to Churup Lake, and to the Moraine camp at Valluna Raju (16,240'/4950m) before moving to base camp
in the Ishinca Valley (14,272'/4350m). Their ascent of Nevado Urus Este (17,783'/542m) was successful,
and everyone reached to top in clear weather. After a rest day they then climbed Ishinca. After another rest day,
they moved to a high camp on Toqllaraju and then summited the following morning in foggy conditions.
      The team returned to Huaraz for to refresh themselves in town
before heading out to the Llanganuco Valley and the short hike to the Chopicalqui Base Camp.
From there they moved to high camp at 16,405 feet (5000m). In the morning they awoke to clear but very windy conditions.
They were able to summit, and on their way down, clouds engulfed base camp. The return to town went smoothly
and the team finished off their trip with a delicious dinner at the home of the family providing the
infrastructure for our Peruvian program.
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