From 14 Camp, climbers ascend and gentle apron of snow that eventually steepens at a section called the Headwall. The Headwall spans the last 800 vertical feet to the crest of the ridge that leads to high camp at 17,220 feet.

The angle and condition of the snow and ice on the fixed lines can vary quite a bit. When there is snow on this portion of the route (usually through early May) the ascent can be very straightforward and not overly taxing. Later in the season the Headwall become very icy and is quite a bit more physically demanding. Typically the angle is about 50 degrees with steeper bulges in spots.

Video Clips (May take a while to load depending on connection speed)

Ascending the fixed lines Leaving Camp at 14K. Heading to the base of the fixed lines. Gaining the icy headwall at the base of the lines. Ascending in the middle of the headwall. Heading back to the top of the lines after making the cache. Descending the fixed lines.

AAI teams head out from 14 Camp on the way to the base of the fixed lines.


Rope teams approaching the base of the fixed lines.


A lone skier traverse under and immense serac below the fixed lines.


Break time on the way to the fixed lines


Many teams approach the base of the fixed lines.


An AAI team prepares to gear up for the fixed lines.


Traversing out to the lines.


AAI Guide Erik Johnson leads out to the lines.


Climbers reach the fixed lines and clip in.


Looking down on parties ascending the lines on the headwall.


A group digging their cache at the top of the fixed lines around 16,300 feet.


A group descends the fixed lines.


Climbers descending past a bergschrund on the fixed lines.


AAI Guide Matt Anderson leading a team to the lines in the early morning.


Climber Adam Janikowsky approach the lines with a team on the headwall high above.


Scott Parazynski enroute to the fixed lines in the early morning.


Rope teams working their way towards the base of the lines.


Rope teams on the lower fixed lines.


Looking up the fixed lines.


Matt Anderson leads a team up the fixed lines.


Nearing the top of the fixed lines.


At the top of the fixed lines at 16,200 feet.


Nearing the top of the fixed lines.


Looking across the top of the fixed lines and the crest of the Direct West Buttress.