Mary Harlan


Mary in her natural element.

Basics

I have been guiding for the last 10 years. I have worked on two professional Search and Rescue teams in the Mt. Rainier National Park as a backcountry and climbing ranger in 1999, and at Olympic National Park as a backcountry and climbing ranger (2002). I guided in outdoor education with the Colorado Outward Bound School for seven years, on 30 to 80 day mountaineering, rock climbing, and backcountry snowboarding adventures. I worked for Babes in the Backcountry for six years, teaching AIARE Avalanche Level I courses, and 1-3 day ski/snowboard guiding courses. For El Potrero Chico Climbing School, in El Potrero Chico, Mexico, I guided multi-pitch rock climbs, and have now spent two years guiding with the AAI. I also worked for Aspen Expeditions for 1 year, guiding alpine climbing, ski mountaineering, Avalanche Level I courses, and ice climbing. I speak Spanish, French, and have a B.A. in International Politics.

Personal Geography

I grew up in Missouri. I moved out west in 2000, living in Jackson, WY, Sun Valley, ID, and many small mountain towns in Colorado. I currently reside in Aspen, CO, but have spent the most time living out of my vehicle.

Proudest Climbing Achievement

I'm proud of conquering "Pink-pointing," a 5.13 off-width, and "Belly Full of Bad Berries," in Indian Creek, UT. I'm proud of putting up four routes this summer in Colorado, including a 700-foot multi-pitch climb in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, from the ground up ("Roadhead," Grade III 5.10+). I climbed "Onsighting," a 5.12 sport climb in Mexico this Fall, and almost free-climbing all of Moonlight Buttress (Grade IV 5.12d) in Zion National Park.

Proudest Personal Achievement

Realizing that in order to be really good at something (like climbing), you've got to train a lot... and then actually doing that last summer and this fall, and REALLY learning from others how to train effectively.

Guiding Geography

I guide in the Cascades, Alaska, Colorado, Nevada, and Mexico; I love guiding in all those places for different reasons. Primarily, I love the different venues and the different types of guiding I get to do in each place, whether it's a glaciated peak in the Cascades, alpine snow and rock in Colorado, multi-pitch sport climbs in Mexico, multi-pitch trad in Nevada, expedition climbing in Alaska, or ski guiding and Avalanche courses in Colorado!

Climbing Philosophy

Have fun, is number one! Number two, don't let your ego get in the way, just keep trying hard, and paying attention, because there's a lot to learn from others! Have fun!

Favorite Climbing Destination

Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Zion National Park, because you get full-on adventure climbing without the crowds, and the climbing is hard. You have to train to climb well in those places, and you have to work hard once you're there. It's suffering and awesomeness all at the same time.

Favorite Style of Climbing

I have 2 favorite styles of climbing: Multi-pitch rock/ice, because I love getting high off the ground and pushing myself hard both physically and mentally; also, single pitch off-width climbing and steep sport climbing. Off-width climbing and steep sport climbing require a lot of patience and perseverance to do well, as well as focus and training. It wasn't until this summer that I finally started to feel really competent at both, but I've been doing them for years!

Hobbies and Interests

I am a freak about trail running; I love it, and competed in many trail-running races. I water color paint/draw, and I am addicted to fixing my 1983 Volkswagen Van until it is perfect (someday.) I practice Bikram Yoga, and I love watching TV when I'm resting because I can turn off my brain off... which is good for me!

Inspirations

People who can balance having children, a husband/wife, guiding, going on personal adventures, and managing to have other interests. I think it takes a lot of energy, dedication, self-motivation, and determination to do this well. My dad inspires me, because he is so talented in so many ways, yet very humble.

Rewarding Moment As An AAI Guide

When I had a group of clients on Mt. Baker, and we all clicked so well. We decided to start our climb at 9 p.m. so the group could see sunset and sunrise, and some of them doubted their own abilities to climb. With teamwork and determination, we all made it up, got back down, and got back to Bellingham on my birthday. The group threw me a party, and one member looked at me with tears in his eyes and said, "Mary, thank you, because this has been a spiritual experience." That was the best trip I have ever been a part of!