Scott Austin Massey


Scott climbing the classic 5.9 chimney route, Epinephrine, in Red Rock Canyon, NV.

Basics

I have been guiding and instructing in the outdoors since 2000. I worked full-time for Outward Bound doing wilderness mountaineering and climbing expeditions from 2000-2007, and I occasionally work for them today. I worked for Southwest Adventure Guides in Durango, CO from 2007-2009, and I have been guiding for AAI since October of 2009. I have a BA in History from Houghton College, in Houghton, NY, and I speak some Spanish.

Personal Geography

I grew up in the suburbs of Philadelphia, PA, and I spent the majority of my adult life living throughout Colorado. Currently, I spend my summer season in Bellingham, WA, and my winters in Las Vegas.

Proudest Climbing Achievement

The three achievements I can think of are from varied sub-genres within rock climbing. The most recent would be my ascent of "Lady Wilson's Cleavage" (IV 5.9) in Red Rock. My friend Kate and I left the car at 6:30 a.m., topped out at sunset, and got back to the car just after midnight, for a full-value day. In terms of the sheer experience, several Octobers ago I climbed the "Hallucinogen Wall" (VI 5.10 A3) in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO... Trippy. In terms of short things, I was pretty psyched to finish "Spin To Win" (5.11 V4), an off-width roof crack boulder problem in Vedauwoo, WY.

Proudest Personal Achievement

I am amazed, and quite motivated, to be almost making a living as a full-time guide.

Guiding Geography

I guide for AAI in the North Cascades, Red Rock, the Sierra, and Joshua Tree. My favorite trips thus far would be Red Rock multi-pitch days, and the AMTL 2. If there were one place I wish I could guide more, it would be the Black Canyon.

Climbing Philosophy

This is a tricky one. I think Black Canyon pioneer Phil Broscovak put it best- "We climbed, simply, to be." I climb to experience a connection with my partner, to push myself, to be outside, but mostly, just to be.


Scott leading a trip on the Easton glacier of Mt. Baker.

Favorite Climbing Destination

Hard to say, but if I had to decide, there would be three: the Black Canyon, for it's long, scary, multi-pitch; Red Rock, for it's long, sunny multi-pitch; Vedauwoo, for the wide cracks.

Favorite Style of Climbing

I like any rock, preferably sunny, but I won't complain so long as it's not verglassed. I like cracks, especially off-width, and face, but try to be good at all of it. As fare as favorite climbs, I like anything that gets me outside with good friends. I don't really care what it is, so long as I do my best.

Hobbies and Interests

I suppose most of it comes back to climbing in some fashion, but I'll add a few things to hopefully not appear one-dimensional. I love skiing, especially untracked backcountry powder, mountain biking, driving my truck (lots of personal time), cooking, eating, beer appreciation, and lately I've been replacing old bolts in climbing areas. I listen to a lot of music (much of it the same album, again and again), sleep, and begin again.

Inspirations

Mark Twight, for his introspective view on climbing and for using it as a tool for self-examination. Guides and outdoor industry professionals who work hard for the small amount of recognition they receive; the American Safe Climbing Association; Hank Williams III for keeping true to his beliefs, and for putting out good country music. I find land managers (BLM/USFS/NPS, etc.) who work hard to ensure access and preservation of our public lands inspiring as well.

Rewarding Moment As An AAI Guide

I guided a woman and her 73-year-old father up Jonny Vegas, a classic 5.7 in Red Rock. Despite being apologetic about how slow he was hiking, on the rock he was amazing to watch. It was truly inspirational, and I hope to still be climbing at that age.