Ian McEleney


Ian offering up some chocolate covered expresso beans - to help with upward momentum.

Basics

I learned to climb rock and ice in New Hampshire 8 years ago, and I've climbed about 150 days a year since, some years climbing over 200 days. I've been guiding year-round since early 2008. I have a BA in Elementary Education and History.

Personal Geography

I grew up in New England, and now live in southern California during the winter, and all over the place during the summer.

Proudest Climbing Achievement

One of the things I like best about climbing is that there is always room for improvement and a higher level to strive for.

Proudest Personal Achievement

The accomplishment I might be most proud of today is old news tomorrow.

Guiding Geography

I guide in the Cascades, the Sierra, Red Rocks, and Joshua Tree. My favorite trips are Learning To Lead and AMTL 2 and 3. On both trips I get to climb with people who have some experience, and are ready to take it to the next level. Watching people put all the skills together to lead is really inspiring.


Ian's commitment to teaching may involve bringing a whiteboard to the crag to explain concepts.

Climbing Philosophy

One of the things I like best about climbing is that there's always room for improvement. I like to try to get things done in the best style I can, whether that's fast, free, or just really efficient. That being said, I also like to have fun and not be going for broke every minute.

Favorite Climbing Destination

Zion National Park. It's beautiful and quiet. It doesn't see too many visits from climbers (relatively) and most of those climbers are on a handful of routes, so it's easy to have an adventure there.

Favorite Style of Climbing

I like big walls, and alpine climbing. Seemingly disparate, these two disciplines actually have a lot in common. Both require a climber to be competent in several mediums. Big walls typically require both aid and free climbing, while the alpine realm often calls for rock, ice, and snow skills. Alpine and wall climbers also need to know how to just exist in harsh terrain. And, of course, both Big Walls and Alpine climbing are both a lot of work.

Hobbies and Interests

I'm a do-it-yourself type of guy. I like to make my own gear (especially packs) and improve commercially made gear.

Inspirations

Alex Lowe was a really inspirational guy. He was extremely well rounded as a climber and also very talented. His climbing partners sometimes referred to him as "the secret weapon" because if he was along, the climb was in the bag. He was also a family man and a genuinely nice human being. Mainly, though, I draw inspiration from my partners. If I see someone I'm climbing with really giving 100%, it motivates me to do the same.