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| Length - 7 Days |
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| Cost - 2:1 $1950; 1:1 $2800 |
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| Max Ratio - 2:1 |
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| Capacity - 4 |
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Location Bugaboos, BC |
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| Backpacking and intermediate rock climbing experience |
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Alpine Rock Climbing in the Bugaboos |
The Bugaboos are North America's answer to the French Alps, offering the same high quality granite above beautiful glaciers like those found in Chamonix, but with one big difference - there are no telepheriques or huge crowds here, only the isolation and grandeur characteristic of the mountains of Canada.
 A climber overlooks "The Hounds Tooth" and "Marmolata" from a glacial tarn in the Bugaboos.
Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park encompasses scores of beautiful spires, all providing classic alpine routes on sweeping faces and elegantly defined ridges of high quality granite. The spires rise from the midst of large glaciers, and all approaches and descents involve a combination of rock, snow, and ice, as well as crevasse field travel. The beauty of these mountains is rivaled only by a few of the world's ranges, and both their challenge and their aesthetics are augmented by their wilderness setting.
Access to the mountains is by a two-hour drive south and then west of Golden, British Columbia, half on a paved and half on a dirt road. A short, but steep hike, brings us to the Alpine Club of Canada's hut. After an additional 45 minutes, we arrive at Applebee, a beautiful granite and meadow-covered knob much closer to the spires and surrounded by excellent bouldering. From this 8000-foot camp, climbs ranging from non-technical, to mid fifth-class, to Grade V, 5.10's are all within reach. There are lots of options and it's easy to choose a series of ascents to match skills at any level.
 Enjoying success on the summit of Bugaboo Spire while admiring the symmetry of Snowpatch Spire below. Andy Bourne
Pigeon Spire, South Howser Tower, Bugaboo Spire, and Snowpatch Spire all conjure up some of the great moments in the history of North American alpine climbing. They deserve a place high on the priority list of anyone with an attraction to wilderness setting and a love of the classic alpine environment.
 Climbers on the Crescent Glacier in the Bugaboos with Snowpatch Spire behind. Matt Anderson: www.matthewandersonphoto.com.
Suggested Routes
Pigeon Spire
- East Face: Grade IV, 5.10
- West Ridge: Grade II, 5.2
Bugaboo Spire
- NE Ridge: Grade IV, 5.7
- Kain Route (S Ridge): Grade III, 5.6
South Howser Tower - West Buttress: Grade V, 5.10a
Crescent Spire
- McTech ArĂȘte: Grade III, 5.10
- Lion's Way: Grade II+, 5.6
Snowpatch Spire
- Sunshine Route: Grade IV, 5.10c
- SE Corner: Grade IV, 5.8
- West Face: Grade IV, 5.8

Climbers on the classic West Ridge of Pigoen Spire, with the Howser Towers in the background. Mark Houston
Cost Inclusions and Exclusions
Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment (personal climbing equipment is available for rent at a nominal charge), camping fees, guide travel time to the course location, all permit fees, and the guide wage.
Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is cost of transportation to and from the course location for you and your guide, all personal clothing and climbing gear (including crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, tent, etc), gratuities for the guide, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.
If you are interested in staying at the Kain Hut instead of camping, you are welcome to pay for the nightly fee yourself, and we will cover the guide's stay.
Getting to the Bugaboos
There are a few options for getting you and your guide to the Bugaboos:
- Meet the guide in Bellingham the day before your course and drive your own vehicle - no extra cost
- Meet the guide at the trailhead to the Bugaboos - $350 total (split between course participants)
- Meet the guide somewhere between Bellingham and the Bugaboos - call for price
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Follow Up Programs
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| Guided Ascents in the Eastern Sierra |
| 2 Days and Up |
Beginner to Advanced |
Eastern Sierra, CA |
Year Round |
| Ever since the days of famous early mountaineers like Clarence King and John Muir, the Eastern Sierra has been known as one of the most serenely beautiful alpine areas in America. |
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| Guided Ascents in the Pacific Northwest |
| 1 Day and Up |
Beginner to Advanced |
Cascades, WA |
April - October |
| The glacier and rock ascents in the North Cascades offer beginners and experts alike the opportunity to experience some of the best alpine climbing in America. |
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| Learn to Lead - Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership |
| 4 days |
Intermediate & Advanced |
Leavenworth, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Squamish |
Year Round |
| The objective of the Learn to Lead program is to introduce climbers to the techniques required for leading single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes, while advancing technical and movement skills. |
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| Red Rock Canyon - Las Vegas Rock Climbing |
| 1 Day and Up |
Beginner to Advanced |
Red Rock, NV (outside Las Vegas) |
September - May |
| Red Rock Canyon is the perfect place to brush up on skills or just warm up in the desert sun while enjoying some excellent climbing. |
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| St. Elias Range Alpine Mountaineering and First Ascents |
| 14 Days |
Beginner & Intermediate |
St. Elias Range, AK |
May - August |
| Beginners acquire skills to be a rope team leader on moderate glacial terrain and intermediate climbers review snow and ice techniques, protective systems, and crevasse rescue. All participants attempt first ascents at a beginner or intermediate level. |
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American Alpine Institute (AAI) |
1515 12th Street Bellingham, WA 98225 info@aai.cc |
© 2011 American Alpine Institute, Ltd. All Rights Reserved
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